It finally warmed up to 23 degrees in Michigan so I started the task of replacing my air box.
I checked the CIS resistance and fuel pressures:
Temperature 23 degrees Fahrenheit
Resistance =26.5 ohms
Fuel Pressure harness unplugged = 34.5
Fuel Pressure harness Plugged = 60
Fuel pressure full = 98
I checked all the injectors and they all sprayed in a V pattern. They did weep a drop or two.
My spark plug wires are not shielded, but I have a new set that is so those will go on as well as the new air box.
I do not plan to put the air box relief valve in at this point.
All the plugs looked light brown
Compression:
1 = 160
2 =160
3 = 125/150/145 (3 attempts as it was out of line with the others)
4 = 165
5 = 165
6 = 165
I am a bit concerned about #3. I checked the valve adjustment, and it was fine. I torqued the case studs again and they moved a bit. I plan to do a leak-down next week.
I also plan to see if my cam valve lash is still in specifications.
Note the engine has about 300 miles after a rebuild and the re-ringed alusil cylinders
no blue smoke!
Discoveries:
when the engine backfired it blew the box apart at the seams. The metal runners look like a barbecue and there a lot of gas in the bottom of the air box. Would that happen when I was cranking the engine to check compression? Why did it not go into the intake runners?
I have a new cold start valve and will replace the old one
I checked the distributor for signs of arching, but it looks like new:
The previous owner had drilled out the adjustment screw that is supposed to be factory set. In addition the area was not sealed leading me to think it was unmetered air:
the O-ring was not making a seal on this pipe:
I will update the post next week.
Thanks
Roadster