Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyg2
House was built in late 60's, I've replaced all glass with double-pane windows and sealed the house up fairly tight (for so Cal).
Note i'm not going for a big energy savings here, just want to make the house more comfortable.
The thermostat is in the living room and with the fire place and 8' slider, it's the worst-insulated room.
That messes with the bedrooms etc because that end of the house is always too hot or too cold.
Also the wife had non-IC canned lights installed 5 years ago in the kitchen and living room. They suck. Big holes in the ceiling is all they are.
This weekend I'm going to install LED conversion kits that will seal up the cans to the attic and ceiling and will change them to IC rating.
That'll make a big difference.
As much as I hate being forced into the darned overpriced-tree-hugger-hippie LED craze, it makes sense in this case.
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IC cans does not mean heat do not escape up through it. It only means the heat form the lamp doesn't go through and cause the insulation to burn. More often, people build or enclose then in drywall or we call it blocking it off form insulation. A none IC can an be installed if it sits 3" (coming off memory here) away from insulation, per code. LED lights / cans do not need to be IC rated. They run cool. That in itself, will keep your house much cooler. Sealing up the gaps around the can will help, but I often question how much since we live in such great climate. Homes from the 60s should have exterior walls insulated. I am not sure if additional insulation in the attic will help all that much?
Tell me more about your HVAC system. The combination of registers and placement of return air has much to do with keep the whole house balanced. Often, having two return air will help solve the issue you maybe having. Again, I need to know the general layout. An attic fan might help in the sumer month. Are the ceiling vaulted? Hot air can be trapped there causing hell in the summer time.