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Chinook Chinook is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western WA
Posts: 99
Garage
My 2 sense;
From experience of approximately 50 engines of both street and race this is what I do for moly and (old school) cast iron rings. This includes in car and dyno.
Fire it up, fast idle @ aprox 1800 rpm, quick timing check and adjust, after engine is normalized to temp (varies w/ engines-15-30 minutes) incur aproximately 12 or so(depending on my mood and solar flare activity) LOW TO MODERATE RPM loading cycles. No high RPM cycles!!! Loading to seat rings by driving ring face into fresh cylinder hone. A cycle with engine in the car would be something like full throttle in 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear from 2000 to say 3500 rpm. Certainly no more than 4000rpm. I usually use 3rd gear, full throttle accelerate to 3500 and back off. Then again and ta da ta da. One must be disciplined and not let the RPM climb too high. There is some school of thought around the localized heat and commensurate temperament incurred at the ring face with too high of RPM with a fresh hone. Varying vehicle/engine speed for the break-in period is just a way to load the rings. If the rings are modern moly filled they are seated almost immediately with a pro hone job. I change/check oil filter after this break-in procedure at around 50-100 miles or 3-4 dyno pulls and initial oil change at 500 miles or 6-10 dyno pulls. No sythetic oil for initial fire up and break-in. Race gets synthetic next, street gets good mineral oil for first oil interval.

Hope this is helpful,
Gary
Old 04-14-2015, 10:20 PM
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