[onewhippedpuppy]

So is it a dealer or private party? Because the only reason why a dealer shouldn't have a title is if they are waiting on an e-title or lien release from the previous owner.

1. I do it all the time, you just need to cover yourself appropriately. I typically write up a basic contract outlining my expectations for title delivery. I typically try to complete the transaction in the seller's bank so that I at least can get a receipt for his loan payoff. I also typically try to make the check out to the bank (if possible) so I know it goes to his loan. What he says is accurate about TX, because I've been through it before. Titles with liens in TX are held electronically, and only mailed to him after the lien is paid off. Worst case there is what is called a "quiet title" action in TX that allows you to get a title with proof of ownership, I did some research into it when a d-bag seller took his time sending me a title. If you trust your instincts then you should be fine, said d-bag seller was indeed a d-bag and I should have expected it.

2. If you won't pay $57.5k, then by all means negotiate pre-PPI. If you are prepared to pay asking price then I would get the PPI and use any noted issues to knock down the price a bit, because they'll probably find something on any used car. Worst case then you can pay asking price.

3. My personal experience with dealership PPIs is that they are a joke, even on the new cars. I would find a good indy or a professional vehicle inspector. I was very impressed with the professional inspector that my friend used in PA, he spent $70k sight unseen based on the inspection and it was spot on.