Quote:
Originally Posted by jhmol
Did I tell you I was a slow learner? So... I put the switch alone in the circuit and turned the screwdriver. A great sound occurred. Engine fired right up. And I could repeat that with the screwdriver. So I took the switch out and put it back on the mechanical portion. The key worked once. Then not again for 10 tries. Then again. Then not again for 15 times. I took the mechanical part off and (now that I know what I'm looking for) got the electrical to work every time. So doctor, what is the diagnosis? I'm guessing that I could drive around with a screwdriver and a hole in the dash or get a new mechanical part. How does that work with the key? I'm guessing there is a way to pull the key cylinder... but I get ahead of myself... again.
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Edit: You posted while I was typing. To be clear, you have resistance when you move to the "start" position and it springs back on its own. Correct?
A couple of possibilities but first, when you use the screwdriver, do you feel the spring resistance in the unit? Does it spring back after starting? If so, then let's take a look at the mechanical part.
First, as mentioned by RDM, make sure you are turning the key all the way to the "off" position after an attempted start to be sure the lock out is overridden. Next, use a pliers to see if the pin that fits into the electrical unit is solidly embedded into the lock. If it rocks or twists in the lock base, that may be the reason why it won't turn the electrical unit past the starting resistance.
If the pin checks out, observe how much of a twist the pin makes when you turn the key from lock to "on" to "start. You can do that by making a dot with a felt marker that lines up the ear of the pin with its location on the base. Then, use the key to turn the lock fully to the "start" position, and make another dot on the base where the ear is now located. Do this several times to confirm the pin is turning as far as it can and the lock out is overridden. Now, place the electrical unit next to the lock and line up the slot with the dot in the lock base when the ignition was "off." Twist the unit with the screwdriver and note where the slot is positioned in the "start" position. Does it match the second dot in the base or is it twisted further?
Try the above checks and report back. At this point, I'm a bit puzzled until I know the pin and electrical unit
both turn to the same degree.
Your problem may be with the mechanical lock out which is in the key tumbler assembly. Take a look at this thread as it sounds very similar.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/476908-ignition-switch-springing-problem.html