While running down through my list of maintenance projects to get Miss Purdy and Lady in Red ready for our Texas summer temps I checked their battery and alt connections, reseated all the fuse panel components, checked the computer connector pins, cleaned the pri/sec electrical grounds and checked their A/C performance. I also inspected the two high quality battery cables I'd previously added in parallel between the block and front frame and from the negative battery post to the rear grounding point. To cut down on a potential roadside emergency I've marked all the relays, carry an assortment of fuses, relays and short jumper wires and store a set of wiring diagrams next to each fuse panel. A bit of over kill I know but I'm more of a belt and suspenders guy when it comes to traveling in an old Porsche on a road trip.
I discovered a slow leak in one of Miss Purdy's console mounted HVAC solenoid lines and a vacuum diaphragm in her A/C control plumbing. I think at least one problem is located in the air recirculation door because it will fluctuate or gradually fail to the outside "air intake" position no matter the placement of the vent control slider. When parked for any length of time both my hot water shut off valve and the air recirculation door will drift to the open position. So - as is commonly done, I temporarily zip tied the heater valve closed and then installed a small tweaked metal rod (tool) to hold the recirculation door closed off to the outside air until some parts arrive. This will keep any scalding water out of the heater core and the hot exterior air at bay during the initial A/C start-up so a lot of unnecessary heat doesn't have to be dissipated before cold air begins coming out of the vents.
The photo is of the "Bent to Length" metal bar or tool that I used to hold the recirculation door closed - raised. You'll notice the top is bent to make a foot while the bottom is just the remaining head of a bolt. The lower hole is drilled in the edge of the housing for the tool insertion. The smaller hole just above it is for the securing screw and washer that holds the tool in position. If you feel up through the grill with your fingers you'll be able to push the door closed which helps to properly position the tool.
Since I had Miss Purdy's engine air filter housing out - I tuned up the beast, cleaned out the gallery recess below the intake spider, inspected all the fuel injector connections and pressure lines etc..., then installed a new Air Flow Sensor "O" ring. While having her injectors cleaned earlier I replaced all the rubber fuel lines with factory spec metric size hoses. I installed the correct fuel line clamps at all the Incoming, Return, Regulator and Dampener, etc.... junction points and although I had the smaller size fuel line clamps on hand, I ordered and installed new OE caps used by the factory at each end of the short fuel lines between the injector and fuel rail. Pretty neat how the cap keeps the fuel line from flaring away from the fuel rail barbs. From what I'd read - Porsche engineers didn't require clamps in these specific locations so I followed their lead - then added a belt and suspenders in the form of a loop of twisted safety wire tightly spanning the distance across each injector and it's fuel rail connecting point. Safety First - Just in case the fuel line cap idea was designed on a Monday after their engineer had been out celebrating Oktoberfest the previous weekend.
Hope Everyone Is Getting Ready for Another Summer of Safe Travel, Michael