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G'day!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida
Posts: 47,320
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The most important component of moving a tree is to try to maintain the root ball as undisturbed as possible.
What Bill suggests is ideal....but unfortunately your tree is down now and you can't wait for the (ideal) dormant period to move it nor do you have time for root pruning (the method described in his post).
The job of the tree spade illustrated above in Steve's post is to accomplish just that. That is the ideal piece of equipment, usually. In your case, Fred...now that the tree has fallen over and half of the root ball is already exposed...your best bet is to dig away at the rest of the root ball and while doing so try to keep as much of a mass of roots as possible to survive the move. It's not easy here in Florida with our sandy soils but you probably have more clay and organic matter in your soil to help maintain the root ball.
You may also find it easier to move if you prune off some of the branches. This is also helpful to reduce transplant shock as it eliminates some of the foliage that normally acts to wick moisture out of the plant.
Dig the hole it's going into first....then move the tree. Do as much as possible not to disturb the existing roots. Plant at original depth. Prop it up as needed with braces. Keep it watered so soil moisture is maintained. You can also throw in a little Milorganite fertilizer when you are back filling as it is 100% organic and won't burn anything.
One more tip...when you are backfilling with soil stick your hose down into the hole while the water is running to push out any air holes. This is very important to avoid leaving air pockets where root damaging fungus can develop more easily.
Dogwoods are deciduous so even if it drops all it's leaves from transplant shock, if it survives the tree will re-foliate at some point.
That's all I can offer at this point, Fred....good luck and keep us posted.
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Old dog....new tricks.....
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