Another great shot, Geary....looks like fun!
A very good friend of mine local pic taken in the 80's. He and I used to surf together almost daily back in the 70's - I remember a discussion about how to kick our boards out after we finished on a wave in fact...lol. His last name is Lane and when he visited Australia they called him "Lois". He surfed in the pro circuit for a few years but his claim to fame has always been surf art. I've posted some of his stuff here in the past. He's had a couple operations and some joint replacements so doesn't surf quite like this anymore but when he did - he charged.....