Quote:
Originally Posted by riber.bentsen
How did you support the engine while replacing the mounts in order to lift it high enough to not remove the x-member? And I suppose your oil pan gasket was in good order...
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Used a floor jack under the oil pan, with a 2X4 long enough to hit both edges in between the jack and pan.
Basically, removed the upper portion of the fan shroud, engine cross member, air filter housing and went below, then removed the sway bar from body mounts, motor mount bolts, one small bolt off the wiring harness going to the starter, oil filter, dropped the cross member bottom plate to allow the steering rack to drop down and the heat shields along the motor mounts. (I'd already had the alternator, air pump and A/C compressor off for other repairs to them...so these need to come off too.)
Then jacked it up as far as I could (until it was just about off the jack stands). It was tight going and I had to manipulate the brackets and motor mount to work them into place. I used the Volvo mounts and the threaded portion of the mounts seemed longer, so I shorten them about a quarter inch. The driver’s side went in as one unit (bracket loosely mounted to the mount, but the passenger side went in separate and got bolted together after wiggling them together (this side was by far the worse end of the deal). The only thing I got a bit nervous about was the heater control mechanism between the engine and firewall...it got a bit tight.
Completely, adding in the time for front engine components being removed earlier…the whole job was probably about four hours total (but, I do mechanical work for a living). No re-alignment required though…and this was what I was after.
Yes, oil pan gasket was in good order and I'll save that job for some day when the head gaskets start leaking and the engine comes out completely.
Remember, this is an 84...so other models may not apply.
Brian.