Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930
Not if you use an air-impact . . . no heat required and easier than yer sister, Bro!!! Stick around and I'll learn you a thing or two yet!  |
My sister uses a saws-all sometimes with special silicone rubber "blades" (That's what she calls them). I digress.
Glad Packy is springing for new bolts. The more I think about it the more I am certain I did spring for new bolts in 99 when I had the trans re-done. May or may not have made a difference but given the coin I unloaded on the rebuild, flywheel re-face and Sachs Power Clutch package, I can't see myself saving a few bucks and re-using the old ones.
The 101 projects book mentions nothing with respect to lubricant or anti-sieze. Neither does the Hayne's manual. I have the factory manual and Bruce Andersons book at home. So I can check.
I am now confused, given absence of information, is clean and dry the norm for a street car? I would assume it is and I am pretty sure that is what I did. I have installed head bolts on cars where the instructions say clean with a touch of motor oil.
All of the variants (oil, Blue Loctite, Moly) can tweak the torque settings a bit as tharbert says.
However, on a street car, I bet dollars to doughnuts that if you torque them and the real value is between 60-70 ft pounds, given you torque them in the proper pattern, no risk.
FWIW: I just dropped $1.29 on a single doughut the other day at the local mega marketer gas station. Renders "Dollars to doughnuts" expression obsolete.