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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Beirut, Lebanon
Posts: 222
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tips for replacing both clutch hydraulic cylinders
I've taken so much good advice from many of you that i wanted to feed back something into the system.
I recently had to replace both master and slave cylinders on my clutch. Here are a few tips from an amateur mechanic who has no special tools and could not find a one man bleeding kit in Lebanon.
Myth 1
You don't need a one man bleeding kit to bleed the system. You can hook up a small oil can (which pumps) and open the bleed nipple on the slave cyclinder down below and pump through until you see in your transparent tubes clear brake fluid with no bubbles. Of course the transparent tube has to be long so it can sit in a jam jar by your feet, but it's a one man bleeding system which works well. I found if you dont open the bleed nipple to much, you can quickly get under the car and close it without any air getting back in during the few moments when you stop pumping.
Tip 1
Contrary to so many posts i read, you do NOT have to remove the clutch lever rod from inside the footwell before removing the master cylinder. It's a very difficult job and it's so hard to force your head into the cavity. When you take off the master cylinder you can see easily that it will go back on and line itself up with the lever.
Can't think for the life of me why so many people say you have to remove it.
Tip 2
I found it really easy to not line up the rod coming out of slave cylinder and the point where it needs to sit on the clutch flywheel. Really worth taking your time and getting it right as you lose hours and hours trying to bleed and thinking you have a hydraulic problem.
Tip 3
You can replace the seals easily yourself in both cylinders saving $$$. Many people just replace the cylinders but this is really burning money in my view.
Hope that helps others who are contemplating the job.
MJ in Beirut
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