0ohms would be a shorted sensor and will indicate fully warm motor. Usually these sensors fail the other way, they open circuit (infinite resistance) and cause extremely rich condition because they trick the DME into seeing a cold motor. But in your case, if shorted out it will do the opposite and trick it into fully warm motor. If shorted it will result in horrible cold start but gets running better as it warms up.
The sensor is threaded into the back side of cyl #3 head.
Remove drivers side rear wheel and at the rear of the motor above the half shaft you will see 3 wires, 2 black wires going to the ref/speed sensors at the flywheel and then you'll see a white wire, that's the CHT sensor going to the head for cyl#3 you need to pull out the rubber boot that hides the sensor then un-thread it to take it out. I usually cut the wire down flush with the sensor so I can put a socket over the actual sensor to un-thread it.
Then install the new one by hand till it's tight with some blue lock tight on the threads. If you can get a wrench on it to tighten it do that. If not a long pair of large needle nose pliers and snug it up just a tad.
Be sure to get the latest 2 wire CHT sensor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 198491132
Throwing Fluke against the wall. Seems I have a goofy Fluke 77. Been 20 years...so I got What I deserved.
Accurate readings...
Ref sensor 965 ohms
Speed sensor 958 ohms
Cyl head sensor 0 ohms. Most be an open causing rich burn.
This is replaced from under car correct?
Dave
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