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More heat. Keep the pressure on while heating. get the heat into the case, not the stud. While leaning on the stud while heating, the stud will tell you when it has enough heat to move.
Others, more experienced than I, have told you to heat the inside part of the case. I heat the base platform bit around the stud, careful not to get direct heat on the stud. After reading this I will heat the inside next time - always learning. Heating the stud just softens the stud, making job harder. Which is probably why they go for inside of case. But it will come free with enough heat. Just a bit stressful having to heat it so much. I use oxy/ acet, but propane/oxy should be enough. Never tried the cannister ones, but for sure you would have to heat for a bit longer. (5+ mins?)
Alan
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
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