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86 930 Running lean
Hello all, I'm working through some issues with a US spec 86 930. The car is stock, and has been runing great. While cruising down the highway, it began to run rough below 3k RPM, over about 3200 it ran fine at light load.
The car will barely idle, and backfires with throttle application. With slight pressure on the metering plate to richen the mixture, the car smooths out at idle and runs great. CIS pressures are below: Temp: 12C System pressure: 6.8 Bar Cold control: 2.0 Bar Warm control: 3.9 Bar Checked for vacuum leaks both with propane and pressurizing the intake, nothing found. Could this be a fuel distributor issue? Everything else appears to be checking out just fine, but obviously I'm missing something! Thanks! |
Dumb question are both fuel pumps working a nd both red relays.
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Kinda hard to diagnose over the phone as there can be a multitude of things that can cause this but here are some checks and info. With KOEO disconnect fuel pump safety connector on the back of the air flow meter and make sure the frequency valve is running (audible test). Passing that start car and do a duty cycle % test at the test plug on the relay plate, looks like a round relay plug connector. I don't have the pin diagram or the spec off the top of my head but should be easy enough to find. I want to say at idle the duty cycle should be in the 55% range.
Have you tried disconnecting the O2 sensor, if so what happens. Have you looked at the timing, does not sound like thats the issue but you need to start with basics of timing and fuel mixture. On the 86-89 USA 911 turbos the lambda system runs closed loop up to 3000 rpm or a 65 degree throttle angle, once you pass either of those threshholds it goes in to open loop so if the engine runs ok past 3000 rpm it sounds like something is leaning it out during closed loop (O2 sensor ?) Again kinda hard to diagnose without being there or lots more info. Hope this little bit helps. Richard |
Moderator please delete
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One vacuum leak source that is difficult to check for with the methods you described (due to a closed throttle plate), and can cause the running issue you have, are loose or cracked injector blocks. For starters, put a wrench on each of the nuts (not like THAT! :eek:) and see if they can be tightened some. Most are pretty accessible with a normal-style wrench, except for a couple of them (such as the ones beneath the air metering assembly) which you might need to trim down a wrench for those.
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After plugging it in, the pumps continued to run. I wonder if I have some resistance in the metering arm or the distributor piston near the bottom of the travel. |
^^^
One thing that can cause the fuel pumps to run with the key on is a bad contact with the pins of the yellow relay (people call it the overboost relay, but it really isn't - I think the parts manual refers to it as the air metering relay). Mine was doing that and I could get the pumps to shut off by wiggling that relay in its socket. I first tried cleaning the pins and socket, but that didn't work, so took the cover off the relay and saw that two of the pins had cracked solder around them, so I reflowed the solder with a small-tipped iron and all good. |
Unplug Lambda and manually set idle mixture to ~13.0:1 AFR then see what happens. Most likely culprit. Next would be the air meter assembly. This change happened abruptly which is indicative of these two issues.
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How does the engine run on boost?
Does it stumble and run too rich or is all as normal? |
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Something has obviously changed, so I don't want to just "tune it away" without finding the root cause. For what it's worth, checked all spark plugs and timing, everything is normal there. I will spend some more time in the garage tonight and let you know what I find. |
I had a few minutes to run down to the barn and do a quick test on the frequency valve. In my mind, I had ruled it out since the O2 sensor is disconnected. Low and behold, it is NOT buzzing with the key on. I did not have enough time to measure anything electrically, but I did lay my hand on the relay (real scientific, I know ;) ) under the seat, and it is clicking.
If the valve has failed, or is not receiving a signal at all, this would create a lean mixture, or 0% duty cycle, correct? It's been a long time since I've been this deep :) |
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Richard |
[QUOTE=RT930turbo;11086577] Low and behold, it is NOT buzzing with the key on.
Were the pumps running, if the fuel pump are not running the freq. valve wont be activated either. Richard |
[QUOTE=porschyard;11086704]
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I did verify I have no voltage at the frequency valve, so I'm going to chase that rabbit up stream to determine where the issue may be. Does anyone have a pinout of the diagnostic connector in the engine compartment? I do get 12V with the key on at the top pin, but nothing anywhere else. |
Fixed
Sometimes you just have to get back to basics. :rolleyes:
Frequency valve is humming away, and it runs like a dream. After I swapped this relay. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604358799.jpg |
Where was the black relay as i have had problems with my car.
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