Continuing to make progress, but had to pause to get the proper cylinder tins. I was missing two of the side pieces (solid ones) and had 4 of the others.

Now here is the question I now have:
Looking at the PET there is nothing listed for the "additional sheet metal baffle that fits on top of each bank" for a turbo car. Looking at other build threads I see some with them, and others without. I would think that they would shield part of the cylinder from cooling air.

One thing I did note, tom84930's car built by TurboKraft did not have these in the pictures from the build thread. I am at the point in assembly, and I am leaning toward omitting them unless I can find information to guild me otherwise.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1290670714.jpg

This is the baffle I was noting above.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1694986304.png

So I resolved my cylinder tin issues and obtained a full set from a fellow Pelican in the classifieds as well as the two missing pieces I needed. This led me to my current side project, powder coating...

I purchased the Eastwood dual voltage system as well as a Jegs Powder Coat Oven (basically the biggest toaster oven I have ever seen). I do not have the room to dedicate a full-size oven at this point and wanted to start with smaller parts until I became proficient and was happy with my results.

I found the Jegs oven is a generous size, and did function ok, but I saw a need for improvement. The main issue I found was the temperature overshot by as much as 80 degrees and that it took a long time to get up to temperature. Once I pulled it apart the issue was obvious. They were using a temperature control that was reacting to the temperature within the control area of the oven, a few inches from the side of the oven cavity where the heating elements were. I pulled that thing out and installed a PID temp controller with a dedicated thermocouple into the oven. I also fully insulated the sides and top with ceramic batted insolation. This also protected the PID from the heat.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695432315.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695432344.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695432383.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695432417.jpg

Those are only for SC not turbohttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695649521.jpg

or engine M64.50 but not turbo as well as the have differnt lower baffles. But as you saw also, some use them on the 930 turbo too (but I am not convinced of the use there)

Those air guides are used on the 1991-92 964 Turbo with the 3.3L M30.69 engine.
Those 3.3L had fully finned cylinders.

Just saw he has fully finned ones. So they could be sensible (even if the lover ones are different on 964 Turbo as some other things there)

I did find that the original outermost tin I had was notched where the later ones are solid. I did acquire some solid end pieces. My car did have the above pieces noted for full finned cylinders even though the old cylinders were not full finned like my new ones. The car clearly had some work in its past as these were added at some point.

I made some progress over the holiday break. I reassembled the top end and timed the cams again. I pulled it apart to measure and remove the clay used to check clearances. I'm running GT2-EVO cams and had some head work done so I did not want to take any chances. All checked out. I removed all the old masking tape covering the intake ports as it was starting to fail. The glue was tough to get off at first. I tried acetone, alcohol, Las Totally Awesome, and simple green with no luck. It just smeared around. Just for the heck of it I spayed some PB blaster on a paper towel and WALA! It wiped right off. I made some 3dprinted covers with hold down. They came out rather good, I'm thinking of adding them to my other 3d printed products to see if they sell. The brass thread inserts make the hold downs spin on fast. Tell me what you think.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704572833.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704572871.jpg

Those port covers are sweet. Nice work.

John

Nice. What inserts are you using? Do they go in hot? e.g. with a soldering iron?

Yes, I have an insert press that uses a temperature-controlled soldering iron converted with brass attachments for the various size inserts. It keeps everything square going in.

That’s pretty hardcore. I just you a long bolt to hold the insert so can see if it’s straight, heat the insert for a couple seconds with a MAPP gas torch and push it in.

Engine’s looking good!

Thanks David! I feel like I am making progress finally.

As for the insert press, its a simple unit I grabbed off of Amazon for $60. I tend to use those brass insers when I can as they work really well. The press came with tips for M2/M3/M4/M5/M6(1/4) & M8 as well as a soldering iron tip if you wanted to use the iron as intended.
Here is a link to the insert press if interested: https://amzn.to/3TYpMYh

^ That’s cool, thanks!

hi David
nice solutions here.
If using the silicon adapter direct onto the throttle body, would it also be possible to use the stock 3.2 rubber adapter, so that idle control would still be utilised etc... and then to feed aluminium pipe into it where the AFM would have normally mounted?

Mike, I'm not completely clear on what you're asking, but it sounds like it's putting the IAC about where it would be originally. My current set up has it coming off the aluminum elbow to the original bung on the Carrera intake. You can sort of see it in these pics:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704827309.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704827309.JPG

Thankyou.
Sometimes what I'm thinking doesn't transfer to the page as clearly as I'd like!

Nice. I have a "drill press" originally for a demmel that I've adapted to do a few things like that. Do you have a link to the inserts you use?

I've been just embedded nuts into the print but the inserts are less critical dimensionally I think and probably scale better.

I have embedded nuts and that certainly works, but the inserts look a bit more professional and finished. Printed threads are ok to test something but just not reliable.

These are the inserts I used for this project specifically:
https://amzn.to/48uOGTC qty of 25
here is a larger qty of them:
https://amzn.to/3HfqWqC qty of 100

Here is an assortment I also use for other stuff:
https://amzn.to/41VpSl2 Metric
https://amzn.to/3tCgMgI UNC

Small update:

THE GOOD:
I completed the assembly of the long block, headers, and painted some of the tin bits.

I decided to add a knock sensor, so I made a spacer on my lathe so I could install it under the throttle pivot bracket. I am sorry I did not take the time to tap the heads for the factory setup using two sensors but at this point I am not taking it back apart.

I really like how my COP setup all fits. The coils fit perfectly and seal up the valve covers well. I am using an NGK plug with a shorter length, so this improved the fitment compared to the factory Bosch plugs. I feel like a heat shield on the lowers would be a good idea to protect them a bit from the headers.

THE BAD:
I am really struggling with the right-side turbo outlet position. If I put it where it gives me the most direct path to the IC, the wastegate binds on the side of the turbo. If I position it like the factory did on the 996, the outlet is facing the rear bumper. I am going to look at all of this once I put the motor back in the car to build out all the charge piping and get the IC placement right.

THE UGLY:
My son developed a rod knock in his WRX so my car may yet again get a back seat until I get him situated.

Here are some pictures since everyone loves pictures...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg

Thanks for sharing the details, I love following along!

Ok, one more update for what's to come:

I went on a short vacation for my Nieces birthday in Puerto Rico. Her boyfriend is a mechanic and works on mostly German cars. He was really interested in learning about my project, and we talked at length. One of the things I discussed was the possibility of going with a Drive by Wire setup to simplify things. The option is only $225 for my M600 and would eliminate the TPS and IAC and any issues with linkage. The Holley project is completed but I am just not happy with the linkage. Even though I matched the geometry of the OE TB, the Holley feels harder to actuate, and gets progressively harder as it opens due to springs and the attack angle of the linkage. Today he emailed me that he is sending me a TB and pedal he had left over from past jobs. The TB is a Bosch 74mm and the Pedal is from an X5 BMW (PART NUMBER UNKOWN AT THIS POINT). Both known working as they were "test parts" so to speak so basically new. All this for less than $20 IN SHIPPING. I will report back on how this all fits up. In searching, the TB should be a perfect fit, hopefully the pedal works as well. I found this (see pic below) from a seller in Australia for the TB. Anyone know of a supplier in the States that has something like this available?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735658947.jpg

Hi Bill -- you won't regret going DBW.
I wasn't aware of it working with MoTeC's hundred-series ECUs?

That adapter is readily available from Vibrant:
"Bosch 74mm DBW Throttle Body to 3" HD Adapter #12470"

Making a pedal mount and brace won't be difficult, either.

Chris,

I was looking back at old emails for info and stumbled on the one you sent me about DBW and started to investigate it. The license is not awfully expensive, and it will really simplify things once I figure out how to program and wire the pedal and TB in.

Bill

I have another question for the brain trust:

Does anyone know of an adapter for the factory fuel rails to AN style? I found the ones for the female ends but not the mail ends. They are 16mmx1.5 inverted flare I believe. Will I need to contact BoxterGT to see if he can just make me a line to connect them?

here is a pic of what I am trying to convert:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735685250.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735685250.jpg

They should have the connectors you need: https://www.batinc.net/

Or instead of adding adapters -- use the original hose ends, put new hose on them at the lengths you want, mark the orientation, and send them to Len so he can crimp in some modern ethanol-safe hose.

I came to the same conclusion and spoke to Len. He is checking his stock of hose ends for me.

thanks for the info.

Bill, What Bosch coil number are you using? Looks like fun build.

Dual Bosch 0 986 221 024 coils on one output from a Motec M600. This was recommended by Motec. They provided me all of the coil data info to program the ECU as well. They really fit well using the smaller NGK plugs (BKR8EIX). With the origional Boch plugs they stuck out a bit too far and would have required an additional gromet at the valve cover to seal it up and keep them from shaking around.

Not really an update, but some new developments in the project.

I got a bit side tracked doing a short block swap for my sons WRX. I wont include any of that nonsense as its not topical in this forum. I did acquire a "spare" motor though of sorts. I picked up a very nice, low mileage 3.0L engine locally. Its not complete, but I was able to get the important stuff (for me) at a great price. At this point I am unsure of what I will do with it. Initially picked it up as a spare just in case, but may build another turbo motor from all of my spares for another car. That is if I can find a nice roller needing an engine at a good price.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763596918.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763596936.jpg

Its missing the intake, and oil pump, but I would have upgraded the oil pump. I have a spare 3.2L EFI intake, as well as the entire OE Single turbo exhaust system with a K27 (old school Andial hybrid). I am leaning toward a simple EFI single turbo based off of my 3.0 Turbo spares. I even have an Andial intercooler I can use. It included a box of parts, but lots of missing small items. I was able to pick up some hardware off of the forum here to help complete it.