Should amateur install turbo headers ??

[Jerry S]

I am only an amateur apprentice type mechanic who has tried some small jobs on the 930 but am wondering whether others feel that an install of brand new B & B headers with all piping and accessories is something I could tackle myself ? If so, are there any specific quirks ? Shortcuts ? Job helping details ?


ps. I know not everybody agrees with B&B but this is what I have to work with.

[RarlyL8]

The biggest issue with installing headers is removing the existing heat exchangers. Snapped studs are not uncommon if the exchangers have not been recently removed. Soak it all down good with your favorite penitrating fluid and have a torch and nut splitter handy.
Once the H/Es are off you want to loose-fit the new pipes before you tighten anything down. Turbo positioning is very important and often affected by headers. There are many things that hook up to the turbo so it needs to be the focal point on fitment.

[sand_man]

Welcome to the amateur hour!!! You can do it! Rarly has given some good advice. Start spraying those exhaust studs...Kroil works VERY well. Let it soak and repeat.

Don't fight it...REMOVE THE 'EFFING BACK BUMPER!!!

Make sure there is no debris in the headers you plan to install: welding slag, foreign objects, etc. Run a bottle brush down the insides of each primary and where the turbo and wastegate attach. Some people knock these areas with a hammer in an effort to loosen any welding slag. MAKE SURE TO BLOW THE HEADERS OUT when you are done. One guy I know even washed them out with soap and water, and used a leaf blower to help the drying process!

The factory oil line that runs up to the thermostat (in the passenger rear fender) from the engine case, can be a real bare to remove from the thermostat end. Hit this with the Kroil, and make sure you have the appropriate sized wrench. If you don't have the oil line wrenches, or some other open-end equivalent, some of those head-set wrenches that a bike mechanic uses have been known to fit. I think Park Tool makes them...might even be able to buy them from your local bike shop. I had good luck with a large crescent wrench.

GOOD LUCK!

[sand_man]

Also, if you haven't already and you no longer need it for a visual inspection, now is a good time to remove the air injection crap...provided your engine was equiped.

[copbait73]

Originally Posted by sand_man

Welcome to the amateur hour!!! You can do it! Rarly has given some good advice. Start spraying those exhaust studs...Kroil works VERY well. Let it soak and repeat.

Don't fight it...REMOVE THE 'EFFING BACK BUMPER!!!

Make sure there is no debris in the headers you plan to install: welding slag, foreign objects, etc. Run a bottle brush down the insides of each primary and where the turbo and wastegate attach. Some people knock these areas with a hammer in an effort to loosen any welding slag. MAKE SURE TO BLOW THE HEADERS OUT when you are done.

GOOD LUCK!

Great advice, I've see many new, expensive turbos trashed by weld slag, spatter, etc. One old method that really works is to buy a length of chain that will fit through the bends and spend an hour dragging it back and forth through each pipe with extra focus on the unseen collectors.
Don't break an exhaust stud. Penetrant can work but if you can't get the nuts off without moderate pressure on a short wrench pack it up and take it to a someone who can. Removal often requires proper application of serious heat. Arrange a time you can watch and learn how it's done then NEXT time you'll have the right tools and technique to do it yourself. All turbo engines have problems with exhaust stud/bolts breakage.
As Rarly says loose installation of all the components is another requirement of these exhaust systems, followed buy careful overall drawdown.

[sand_man]

Originally Posted by copbait73

Great advice, I've see many new, expensive turbos trashed by weld slag, spatter, etc. One old method that really works is to buy a length of chain that will fit through the bends and spend an hour dragging it back and forth through each pipe with extra focus on the unseen collectors.

WOW...that's a great tip!!! Also, I'm not sure what kind of gaskets (especially the exhaust port gaskets) come with the B&B install kit. If they aren't the nice looking factory metal ones with an asbestos like material in the middle (like a sandwhich), don't waste your time...buy the proper ones. I can't remember who it was, but one of these manufacturers was supplying their headers with these horrible home made gaskets!!! I'm also not sure what type of hardware comes with the install kit...use new stuff. The nuts I used were a copper looking material.

[sand_man]

Sorry to keep adding to this, but once your headers are ready to go on, I would cover the turbo flange and wastegate flange openings with duct tape....it sucks to drop a nut or washer down one of these openings! For some reason, Murphy's Law always prevails!! Obviously remove the tape when you are ready to add those components.

How are those chain covers doing? Are they leaking oil? Now is a good time to replace the gaskets, and to ensure the covers are "true"...

[AngM018]

Originally Posted by sand_man

Sorry to keep adding to this, but once your headers are ready to go on, I would cover the turbo flange and wastegate flange openings with duct tape....it sucks to drop a nut or washer down one of these openings! For some reason, Murphy's Law always prevails!! Obviously remove the tape when you are ready to add those components.

How are those chain covers doing? Are they leaking oil? Now is a good time to replace the gaskets, and to ensure the covers are "true"...

Its the "while you were in there's" that will kill you!!

[sand_man]

Originally Posted by AngM018

Its the "while you were in there's" that will kill you!!

Amen to that, brutha!!!! I just HATE "going back in"!!! So I try to have a look at stuff and figure what else I can do while I have the best access.

[911rudy]

One other thing I know you will run into is the turbo bracket that bolts the turbo to the engine. It will be hard to fit back on so be patient. Some guys leave it off but my guess Ferdinand put it there for a good reason. Since you are not replacing the turbo you might be able to loosen it without taking the bolts out. It is unlikely that the headers will fit the turbo and all of the exhaust outlets without loosening the bracket. Also be sure you have the new oil lines to replace the old ones that will not fit with headers. I agree with everyone above but I tried to turn my old exhaust nuts before using a penetrant, and they came right off. I know I was lucky but a simple turn with moderate pressure might yeild the same results for you. The key word is "Moderate".

[slow&rusty]

I owned my car for one week and did it!! And I had never worked on any Porsches before. Use an impact gun...I beg you puh-leeeeZe, and lots of soaking in oil as Brian and Jeff mentioned.
Go for it!





Regards - Yasin

[Jerry S]

Great advice,

Thanks guys. Actually , while you are in there hopefully does not apply since I had the engine rebuilt about a year ago. I know, I know, I should have done it then, but I picked up the headers while in LA on holidays since the build as I am from the far North.

[wcc]

I think so. With the help of this board and maybe a hand to help out you should be fine. Don't be scared to post up questions.

Also, do some thread searching. There's stuff already out there. Also, search the 911 tech forum because there is good (930) stuff there as well.

Here's a couple that came to my mind:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=395672&highlight=K27

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=398454&highlight=headers

FWIW, I don't think I'd use an impact gun on the headers. Also, I used lots of Kroil to soak and then MAPP gas to get off all the barrel nuts. A couple nuts stripped and I welded a blob of weld on the end of the long wrench and sharpened it and pounded it up the barrel nut. Heated it really hot, I mean when you think it's hot it's not make that sucker GLOW. I used a nut splitter on the three regular nuts on the PS and a swivel socket for the DS.

But again, these people on this board were VERY helpful to me. I don't know if I would have tackled it without them. Well, I probably would but they made it a ton easier.

[fredmeister]

Make sure to tighten evenly the bolts on theheader flanges in a cross sequence pattern similar to the rocker covers. Helps to tighten them up evenly and avoid leaks.
After running the engine for awhile recheck them for tightness, and look for exhaust leaks.
Do not put a pipe clamp on the front slip joint where the passenger side collector pipe connects to the remainder of the header.....no image to help explain (sorry) as you need this free to move under thermal expansion. Seen some posts of this connection clamped by some guys.
Good luck and enjoy the reduction in turbo lag.

[A930Rocket]

I remember talking to Stephan at IA about using an impact. IIRC, he like to use them because it broke the nut free/backed it off quickly vs. slowly backing it off and having it bind. Of course, there's not much room around the headers to get one in...

Originally Posted by wcc

...
FWIW, I don't think I'd use an impact gun on the headers...