Two questions: #1) transmission leak, #2) empty rubber gromet for relay.

[JFairman]

The plug you have there is for checking the K-jetronic lambda system/pulse valve operation that uses an oxygen sensor in the exhaust for it's readings and operation.
The ECU for it is under the driver seat. CIS is K-jetronic fuel injection and you should see that written on the aluminum box under the seat.
That plug was and should be installed from the backside in the empty hole in the console up above it in your picture. I don't know how you go about checking it through that plug and I don't think most people care anymore...

There is no problem using a red relay instead of a black relay anywhere on the car. They are the same other than the red ones have a diode in them to block and buffer the small voltage spikes when switching power. They use them as fuel pump relays to help protect the fuel pump brushes when they are switched on or off.

Red ones cost a little more than black ones because of that.
The yellow relay to the left is your overboost relay. It's a good idea to have a spare one of those in your glovebox. Some of the older cars will work with a red one in it's place but my '87 will not start with a red one in place of the yellow one.

[NathanUK]

When you have that plate off the tranny you could have a feel around for any dog teeth from the synchro's. The teeth can break off and if they get in a bearing or gear they will cause a nasty problem. BTDT.

[x98boardwell]

Nathan,

Thanks for the info on the synchros. I will have a look to see.

Jim-A930Rocket

Is the loctite case sealer that you mentioned made by Loctite or Permatex? I went down to the local Kraegen (we also have Auto Zone & Pep Boys) and I could not find that particuler product. Where did you purchase?

Thanks,
Bryan

[A930Rocket]

I haven't found any info on the plug yet in the manuals.

I think some just posted that there is a resistor in the red relay.

Originally Posted by x98boardwell

Jim,

Thanks for the help. I will save the RTV for another day and use the loctite case sealer as you suggested. From what you have said, this will be a better solution.

I am letting the trans drain for a few days before I finish cleaning the surfaces and put the plate back on. I wish this was also out of the car and upside down but I don't have the time or a good enough reason to do so at this time. This will have to last until my rebuild and the major work starts (hopefully 2 more years).

Lastly, regarding the picture with the relay. I was told by another pelicany that this was a tester for the CIS system. Can you verify that this in fact correct? Only 3 of the holes in the relay grommet have metal in them, meaning whatever you plugged in would only use 3 pegs/studs to connect. I'm just wondering if something should be there or not and what would that "CIS tester" even tell us?

Thanks,
Bryan

PS. I will change he relay in back from red to black. What is the difference between the two internally?

[x98boardwell]

A930Rocket,

Did you see the info on the Loctite question that I had in the last post on page #1?

I cannot seem to find the stuff?


Thanks,
Bryan

[turbobrat930]

Bry, you probably wont be able to source the case sealer from any local places... I am sure you can find it here from the host of this site.... or Give Don a call at EBS ( engine buliders supply)

[JFairman]

loctite #574

[x98boardwell]

I spoke to my Turbobrat930 and he mentioned that if I were to use the loctite #574 then I could not use my gasket. I think it may be better to just use the gasket along with some RTV sealant on both sides to add a little sealer help.

The loctite #574 is for mating two pieces of metal together when there is no gasket like on the case halves correct?

Thanks,
Bryan

[JFairman]

Yes, 574 hardens in the lack of oxygen and is made for sealing the case halves together.
I'm not recommending using it on a paper gasket but some people do and say they don't get oil leaks.

So, I guess you should ask around and decide what you want to use.

I'd probably try a real thin layer of hylomar on the paper gasket because I like the stuff.

[A930Rocket]

Bryan

I had left over Loctit from my engine rebuild that I used. Pelian and EBS as mentioned have it.

It's been a good while since I did mine, but I'm almost pos I used the gasket. It's thin as paper and maybe the loctite can soak in it. I was told by Stephan to go this route vs silicone. As easy as it is to though, you may want to try the silicone.

[x98boardwell]

I spoke with Patrick Motorsports. They said that for the loctite 574 to work it would need more fixation points to keep the metal pieces tight all over. The case halves are machined flat and have more fixation points where the loctite 574 would be ideal.

He also said that they would not recommend using it on the shift plate because those metals are not made perfectly flat and that is why they use the paper gasket. They said to use the gasket with a very little amount of the gasket sealer to fill the in-perfections in the metal and that should work just fine. He said it's torqued at about 80 inch lbs. I think that is around 7.2 foot/lbs.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

Bryan

[NathanUK]

I installed all my gaskets dry, very dry. But, my carrera sits outside on a gravel drive so I'm not too fussy about a drip of oil.
I would use 'Blue Hylomar' for a 100% seal on each side of the gasket.

[x98boardwell]

What is "Blue Hylomar" and where can I find it in the states? I have not heard of this product before. I was going to use the Permatex RTV sealant.

Thanks,
Bryan

[A930Rocket]

Holy cow! Lots of advice on how to seal it and it seems several have worked. The good news is that if one way doesn't work you can always go back try another easily enough.

[NathanUK]

I think you guys jusy call it Hylomar. It was developed by Rolls Royce and makes me proud to be British

[NathanUK]

I think I would get the advanced as the blue is out of stock.

http://www.hylomar-usa.com/_resources/_html/order.html

[x98boardwell]

A930rocket,

I know, I know... a lot of advice about a seemingly simple task, but since I don't have the gasket yet, I figured I would try and find all options. That is why I love this site... I always get so many different approaches and I love it. You have been a huge help along with the others (356-930, NathanUK, etc.) and I appreciate your time on this minor issue.

I hopefully (with all of the help) will be able to do this in one try rather than dealing with it again. It is kind of a pain in the a$$ to do this from underneath while the car is on jack stands, cleaning all of the residue off the trans and the shift plate and then going back in there and sealing up again.

NathanUK, thanks for the link on the hylomar.

Bryan

[NathanUK]

I'm thinking you won't need the gasket with that hylomar...

[JFairman]

Last time I was in Harbor Freight tools of all places they had Hylomar in the 5" long tubes.
It was the real stuff made in the UK.
Cost around $5, maybe a little less.

I've seen it from Wurth and Permatex in the little tubes too.
Also comes in a pint sized tub.

It is by far the most versatile gasket sealer ever made. Gas doesn't touch it and any silicone gasket sealer swells up into a rippled mess when gas gets on it.
It is blue colored and never ever dries, and always stays sticky, smearable, and gooey.
That makes it seal better on surfaces that expand and contract with temperature changes and it will always wipe off surfaces or your hands with a rag soaked with laquer thinner. Very easy to cleanup.

Some people even use it to seal Porsche case halves.
It was designed for and origonally used on the P51 mustang Rolls Royce V12 Merlin engines in WWII as far as I know.

[rsrmike]

Permatex "Ultra Grey" works very very good. It is much stronger than standard RTV
Plus you can get it anywhere.
Isn't that Curil T sealer from our host the same thing as hylomar?

PEL-246948 -curil sealer