Anyone using RSR/Bilstein Shocks by Rebel Racing?

[vmb]

Originally Posted by spence88mph

Hey Vic, so you bought the model pictured above? How do you find the set up, are you running torsion bars as well?

sorry, that super trick shock was not available last year when I bought my upgrade. I just have the "plain" RSR coilovers at the top of that page. I did the spindle height mod and the bumpsteer kit. No torsion bars, just the coil springs. I also installed Elephant Polybronzes on the bananas, and Rebel's polygraphite bushings on the strut tops and A-arms, a Weltmeister front swaybar and strut brace. I will humbly say now that I did not build a track car, but a trackable street car, using only 300 and 400 spring rates. If you are looking at those double adjustables I'm sure there are others here to give better advice than I could!

[JBL930]

Originally Posted by vmb

sorry, that super trick shock was not available last year when I bought my upgrade. I just have the "plain" RSR coilovers at the top of that page. I did the spindle height mod and the bumpsteer kit. No torsion bars, just the coil springs. I also installed Elephant Polybronzes on the bananas, and Rebel's polygraphite bushings on the strut tops and A-arms, a Weltmeister front swaybar and strut brace. I will humbly say now that I did not build a track car, but a trackable street car, using only 300 and 400 spring rates. If you are looking at those double adjustables I'm sure there are others here to give better advice than I could!

Vic, how does your car feel with 400's in the rear? I have 400's in the rear, with no torsion bar, and it's way too soft. I find going over bumps in the road at high speed unnerving, i have the stock sway bar with the Rebel racing drop links and just the RSR rear coil over kit with sports shock.
Front feels great with a similar set up to yours, Rebel racing triangulated strut brace, through chassis sway bar and drop links, same strut tops as you, RSR struts and springs (the all yellow set up), bump steer kit etc. I'm thinking of going up to 500's in the rear, maybe even stiffer? Do i need to go stiffer in the front to keep a balance? Maybe my 993tt engine is heavier than i thought?

[Reaper930]

Jonathan - 500's are going to be way too soft as well - look at maybe 800's for our TT motors.

I run 500's with no tbars in the rear and 350's in the front I believe and its too soft even for the street. She soaks up bumps no problem and is very stable but she has too much travel with the 500's in the rear and I've done a lot to cut weight. So at 2548, we're looking at about 800# rears to bring her where she needs to be.

Suspension stuff on mine are Bilstein coils at all 4 corners, raised front spindles, helper springs, 935 style strut brace in the front and upgraded sways front and rear and the obligatory drop link kit & bump steer kit.

[JBL930]

Thanks for the info Gabe, maybe i'll go up to 6 or 700 then, i'll talk to Clint.
Are you happy with the front on yours using 350's? My front end feels great with 300's although i haven't done any track days yet, only a VMax event and it felt sure footed braking from near 190mph in a short distance.

Some pics of my set up

[Reaper930]

Jonathan,

Yes the fronts are FANTASTIC! We just ran the tail of the dragon and I really put her through some multi-elevation compound curve corners and did some heaaaavy braking (enough to lock up 315 front tires) and she was sure footed as all hell like you spoke of.

Virtually no roll whatsoever and my tire to fender clearance is just about nill as you can see in the below pic (remember being a flatnose my wheel can't go up into the fender ), and I never had an issue of rubbing or the like. Also they assist in absorbing bumps mid corner without sending one wheel or both in the air. And that's a huge thing for me is not having contact during a mid corner bump while turning at half lock, but again - the front setup is perfectly adequate in my opinion.

[vmb]

Originally Posted by JBL930

Some pics of my set up

JBL- Sorry, I have only done one autocross in the wet (ie slow, slippery) and can't give any performance opinions on the 400's. "regular" driving on the road is definitely harsher than stock. Maybe it's not so much the spring rate but did you have your shocks revalved for the 400# springs? (I did). Also, looking at your rear spring, is that a softer secondary spring you have? That does not look like what I got from Rebel. I'm very curious!

[JBL930]

The thin springs are there just as helpers, nothing to do with anything other than prevent things getting out of place.
When i say the car felt solid braking hard on a 1.5 mile run, check the speed of decelaration here

[911st]

I do not know if it means anything to anyone but 350# front coil overs are pretty close to a 23mm front torsion bar.

I believe a rear spring around 600# gets a wheel rate of about 500#.

That is a balance of about 41% front , 59% rear which is the same balance as a factory 930.

Might want to start there or go a little stiffer.



However, check with a real expert.

[911st]

I am probably wrong but I suspect the tender spring belongs on top. Otherwise the adjusting collar might foul the alignment ring between the springs.

Originally Posted by JBL930

[930gt-40r]

Gabriel, what small and unfortunate animal is that caught in your front grill in this picture?

Originally Posted by Reaper930

[Reaper930]

Its a bat...this was after the dragon, then the next one is when I got to Texas...she's still on there too - didn't have the heart to take it off

[930gt-40r]

Awww, thats Fu*ked hahaha
I guess that is your new emblem for your car, new meaning to the name "Reaper930" That one is a keeper, she is huge.

[MikeD930]

For those with RSR struts what type of thrust bearings are used?

There are two types, one has a bearing at the top spring cap and the second type is a large dia bearing that is sandwiched between the spring and threaded collar.

Another question, is the overall length of the RSR strut the same as the stock strut? Did any of you have the strut/insert shortened?

My shop replaced the coil over racing struts (unknown brand, my PO invoice shows Single Adjustable Strut, 911-115-1.5 DP) with RSR Bilsteins coil over struts with raised spindles (19 mm). I found that the overall length is quite a bit longer than the other struts I had so I added a cable to tie the lower strut to one of the three upper strut mount bolts to achieve proper length. I will have the inserts shortened later.

[A930Rocket]

Mike,

I think most go with the bearing on top.

Did you tie a cable from the strut to the camber plate to keep it from extending to it's full height? Was this because the ride height was too high? Wouldn't you just adjust the springs to lower it?

Jim

Originally Posted by MikeD94

For those with RSR struts what type of thrust bearings are used?

There are two types, one has a bearing at the top spring cap and the second type is a large dia bearing that is sandwiched between the spring and threaded collar.

Another question, is the overall length of the RSR strut the same as the stock strut? Did any of you have the strut/insert shortened?

My shop replaced the coil over racing struts (unknown brand, my PO invoice shows Single Adjustable Strut, 911-115-1.5 DP) with RST Bilsteins coil over struts with raised spindles (19 mm). I found that the overall length is quite a bit longer than the other struts I had so I added a cable to tie the lower strut to one of the three upper strut mount bolts to achieve proper length. I will have the inserts shortened later.

[JBL930]

Originally Posted by 911st

I am probably wrong but I suspect the tender spring belongs on top. Otherwise the adjusting collar might foul the alignment ring between the springs.

We just set them up after looking at the pics on the Rebel site , not sure if it's right? The guys who did the work for me are a good bunch, the Geo is all done on a state of the art laser thingy. Everything is spot on, it's just too bloody soft in the rear, i've sent Clint an email, will see what he says.
I actually bought the coil overs from Stephen Kasper, I told him all about the car, engine, power level etc, he decided on what the rates should be, the shocks were supplied and valved at the same time, Stephen if you're reading this it would be good to hear your thoughts? I bought all the other stuff direct from Clint, drop links, sway bar etc etc

[NathanUK]

The helpers are right Jonathan, on most 'normal' cars they do go at the top.

Oh, would like to see the time on that chart you posted too

[911st]

What I think I am seeing is the tender spring when collapsed is not going to be thick enough to keep the two lips of the adjustment collar and seperating ring from hitting each other.


Look at the adjustment collar. It has a significant lip that sticks up. Look at the ring that separates the spring. It has a significant lip that sticks down.



This might transfer load the collar lip instead of the spring seat.

[JBL930]

I see what you are saying, maybe the thickness of the compressed spring is just enough? Would be a bit of an oversight if it isn't.

Here you go Nathan, this was the first VMax event since the new engine has gone in, i wasn't pushing the car too hard, i could have braked a lot harder but i was frightened of locking the wheels. I could have also gone harder in each gear, you can see i changed to 4th long before 130mph came up, and i know i can get 134mph if i red line 3rd, plus the 60 to 130mph was around 9.5 seconds and i know if i'm agressive it will do it in 7.5 seconds . Next event i'll be lighter, i was carrying a passenger and a full to the brim tank of fuel, and i will be more agressive, will get into the 190's then. Which is quick in a old car i think

[NathanUK]

Yeah, that looks kinda quick to me!

If you want to be anal (which I am) about the shocks then you could argue that the threads will rub away at the floating seat.
Maybe another seat should've been used?

[MikeD930]

Jim,
Yes, I tied it to the camber plate to shorten the full extension of the strut. There are two problems without using the cables. First, since my front end has 935 front suspension components its spherical bearing would tend to bind if the struts were allowed full extension. Second, I'm using the same Eibach coil over springs that were used before which are too short for the RSR struts when the car is lowered to desired height to match the rear height. In other words I can lower the car with these springs without using cables but when the car is on the lift or become "airborn" there would be no spring compression. Actually, there would be 1" gap between the spring collars and spring at full extension.

When I picked up the car from the shop (originally at the shop for state inspection a month ago) after having its front struts replaced the front end of the car was at "stock" height which was way to high for a lowered rear end. I asked why didn't he make it lowered. He said that the springs were too short for reasons I described earlier. If I had known that this would be a problem I would have requested to have the inserts shortened when the shop ordered the RSR struts.

Also, found out that there are no thrust bearings when I added the cables so I added molybdenum grease at the ends of the springs for now until I add the thrust bearings. I have no idea if there were thrust bearings before. I'll ask the shop later. I'm kinda kicking myself to let the shop do the work. They even installed the front rotors on "backwards" which I corrected when I worked on the fronts after getting my car home from the shop.

Jonathon,
That's one impressive braking! Was that on big reds or stock 930 brakes?

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Mike,

I think most go with the bearing on top.

Did you tie a cable from the strut to the camber plate to keep it from extending to it's full height? Was this because the ride height was too high? Wouldn't you just adjust the springs to lower it?

Jim