8000$ butget to spend
 

What would you buy for a budget of 8000$ to spend.
I have 3.3 '77 fully original except an obx header.
The header and muffler will be replaced within the budged.
I also have a 2 stud thats spinning through in the cylinder-heads.
So i hope for a repair using over-sized studs ,or does someone have other suggestions for this issue?
So i need a header and muffler (good quality) not an obx anymore ;-)
A bit more power is welcome but not needed. My engine has 50.000 miles on it
as far as i know without a rebuild... it runs great but i do not trust it and will not wait until the engine explodes ;)
so where would you spend your money...?

Would you change the wastegate, hydraulic chain tensioner?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296084559.jpg

Headers, ARP head studs, gut your stock muffler, port your heads, add cams, bb turbo, etc.

An engine rebuild will eat up your $8K pretty fast.
Definitely do the ARP head studs and rod bolts, cheap insurance.
You say the power level is OK now but I would at least get a performance muffler to enhance driving pleasure, free up a few ponies, and loose some weight in the right place.

I have a 77. The engine that you have, if it is a 3.3 and if the intercooler is stock with that car, it is not the orig. engine.

In 77 the 930 came with a 3.0 turbo without an intercooler. I added one on mine, by changing the intake manifold to a 3.3 intake an added the intercooler. Ended up upgrading that to the Fabspeed one. That and the k27 made the car so much smoother.

I also had the engine rebuilt. All struts and shocks. Rebuilt my 930 trans. Redid the whole interior and got the seats redone. All this was done at a friend of mine who owns a Porsche shop in NY called MTECH.

Now all that being said. Just in parts at whole sale. An engine rebuilt will eat up the 8000 dollars in the first day.

I had 6 broken head studs. I had a piston that was moving causing damage to the cylinder. I had to have the engine sent to the machine shop. that alone was 1800 dollars, with new valve guides and to cut the valves, seats, and to remove the two head studs that snapped to close to the case.

Now the bearing set for the piston along with the main bearings and all new hardware and seals, rockers, and to rebuild the engine at discounted hours. All said and done was over $12,000.

Interior was the cheapest. Seats refurb was $800. Carpet rsr type was $300. Carpet for front was around $150.

Oh hands down. Get H4's for your head light. Major improvement.

Struts for front were about $375. Rear about the same.

Clutch, throw out bearing, kit $1200.

Now power upgrade. K27 rebuilt, $375 from Lyndsy racing.

The intercooler, there you will spend money. I picked the Fabspeed. Very nice unit. That combo will be the best thing you can do right now. With out killing your budget. The fabspeed unit runs around $2000 dollars.

I put a wide band unit. A must for turbo. If you run to lean your engine is shot. Blows holds into the pistons.

With your head bolt issues, that will run you a large chunk of your budget. I would do the turbo / intercooler thing.

If you start with hotter cams and engine work like pistons or EFI for more power. Your looking at around $20,000 to make it right. Trust me. I've seen them done cheaper, less money, with very bad results.

The only thing left for me is a few cosmetic issues.

Good luck. Keep wallet open. Best money spent.

Robert

Ok, this is some of die information I'm looking for.
ARP studs are on my list.
Which muffler and header would you choose? do you sell them?
Do I need to go for a hydraulic chain tensioner?

Mine is a original 3.3 build number 104
Production of the 3.3 started half 1977...
I already have a new clutch and it will be replaced along with a trans rebuild.
My interior is finished
Wheels also (Fuchs but not OEM)
Question: can I change head-studs one at the time (when lucky,so no broken studs) maybe it's a stupid question but...:D
As I said before ,I do want to keep it original except the header and muffler...

a picture of the Interior and wheels

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296170370.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296170392.jpg

Nice looking car!

Yes, chain tensioners are a must. Ask me how I know?

50k is not a lot on a bottom end unless there is a failure.

Based on what you said a rebuild is probably not necessary and you might just be able to replace the broken studs and have a good running motor for another 50k miles.

However, considering the work reqired anyway most would consider doing a top end rebuild in your situation.

New studs, tensioners, rings, valve job, injector blocks if cracking, re-seal, and maybe send the injectors out to be cleaned and tested for balance.

If you do it yourself and all goes well you should still have some funds left over for some goodies.

What they are depends on your goals.

The best upgrades if you prize low end and drivability would be a K27-7200 turbo, the lowest restriction muffler you can live with, and setting your idle CO to 3%.

If your interests run more for big HP. Then you might consider having your cams reground to SC or C2 specs & port the intake and manifold to 35-36mm. Then latter when funds allow go for a big intercooler, more boost, and a bigger turbo.

You also asked about the wast-gate. If your's is working properly, there is no need to replace it.

If your taking off the cam towers to change the two broken head bolts, replace them all. Most of the work of dropping the engine/trans and taking sheet metal off and removing the cams, the only thing left is pulling the cylinders. All your head studs will be there. The other problem is that once you do that, like 911st said, a top end rebuild is so easy since its apart already.

I also have to say. The best money I spent is the intercooler/k27 7200 upgrade along with the header and muffler set up. Plus when you get a AFR meter, you can adjust to run very nice under boost. Fun. Anyway. Good luck.

PS. I never heard of a 3.3 stock in a 77 930. All the documents from porsche show that 1978 was the first. The 1700 or so that were built in 77 as per my porsche book were 3.0's. Is yours a made in 77 but spec 78?

"Porsche made its first and most significant upgrades to the 930 for 1978, enlarging the engine to 3.3 litres and adding an air-to-air intercooler. By cooling the pressurized air charge, the intercooler helped increase power output to 300 hp (DIN); the rear 'whale tail' spoiler was re-profiled and raised slightly to make room for the intercooler. Porsche also upgraded the brakes to units similar to those used on the 917 racecar"

Man your car is gorgeous!
I assume the car was made late in '77 as a '78 model.

@RarlyL8
Indeed it's a '78 model.
For now I know enough.
This was the information I was looking for!
Thanks guy's! First I will left on 14 feb my country and go visit Australia for a hollyday.
I will return in april ,drop the engine and get started. I will post pictures and hope all goes well.

Brain,
Can you sent me a price for a good muffler an header for my setup :)
w heat ex. please. I do not want a double exhaust as i want to keep it original as far as possible... Thanks!

:D can't wait

Seems like others are happy with modified CIS setups and If I had the 8K budget I'd do the following. Work with a single CIS expert -- RarlyL8 to complete the project. Stay with one motor builder it will make your project so much easier.

occb2, I am in Highland Mills. Where is MTECH. I thought I knew all the shops around this area.

Wow your close. Haven't seen any 930's around here. Mtech is what use to be PAR porsche in New Rochelle. Mike the owner use to be the head tech over there when it was PAR. When PAR ended, Mike brought the shop from the owner and renamed it Mtech. The address is 310 Main street, in New Rochelle.

I use to go to Tommy here in Vails gate. Great shop but a bit pricey. The way I found Mtech was, when I had my Euro 85 911 coupe, that I brought from Tommy's place, he had it on consignment. Going into first gear was grinding a bit. I took it to Tommy and he said it was the syncro and that it would cost me over $3000 dollars.

One of the guys at my job was friends with Mike when he worked for PAR. Sent me there. Well it ended up being a $15 dollar plastic shifter bushing. I walked out of the shop with an valve adjustment, a short shift kit and bushing, for around $400 dollars.

I have been going there ever since. Plus I became very good friends with him. Shoot me an email, I'll introduce you to him. You won't go wrong.

Robert

occb2, I have a shop in town ( central valley), soundfx.
My car is a 911sc cab widebody. I have a 3.5 turbo motor and short bell housing tranny in it
I drive it in the spring and summer all the time. It is white.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296317167.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296317182.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296317194.jpg

Jbrown, nice car. I especially like that euro bumper. Wheres' the license plate lights?

Thats the only lights I have to put on. They are on my list for things to do this winter.