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Norm K's Avatar
 
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Distributor Lockout Help

So I've reached the point in what oughta be a simple project where the War Department is becoming increasingly impatient; seems I'm spending too much time in my garage ...

Installed an MSD 6530 programmable ignition and have ran it as a "regular" box until I sent it into MSD for warranty service (wasn't communicating with my computers). Got the unit back from a couple of days ago and, communication issue resolved, I figured now would be a good time to lock the dizzy and take advantage of the 6530's ignition and boost retard features.

I've spent a lot of time reading the various posts on the subject and things seem pretty straight forward. So I disassembled the distributor, locked the weights and mag/stator wheel (can't remember the correct nomenclature while I'm typing this), reassembled and reinstalled.

Started the engine and let it warm up a bit then checked the timing with a dial-back light. With everything locked at full advance I'm getting only 18.1 total degrees of advance, so I'm looking for another 11 degrees (euro model = 29% total, right?)

I hate it when I can't figure things out and have to post, but here I am. Any insight and advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Norm

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Old 12-26-2013, 10:13 AM
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Probably should note that the distributor is installed with Z1 aligned, the rotor pointed right at no.1 and the dizzy mounting stud comes through the adjusting arc at about the mid-point.

I'm wondering if retarding it by one gear tooth might give me more adjustment to the advance side
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Old 12-26-2013, 10:25 AM
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What is stopping it from advancing more? If you had 28* before whether through centrifugal and vacuum advance etc! it's hard to see why you can't slide it to that position manually and lock it there.
You've seen the epic thread on distributors? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/500986-ultimate-930-distributor-advance-retard-timing-turbo-lag-msd-mod-thread.html?highlight=Distributor+lock%2A
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:42 PM
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Sounds like you're a tooth off.
Old 12-26-2013, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxrken View Post
What is stopping it from advancing more?
The end of the slotted adjustment arc. I filed it to get some more adjustment but I've removed about all the material I'm comfortable removing and have still picked up only a few additional degrees of advance - I'm now at almost 23*.
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DSPTurtle View Post
Sounds like you're a tooth off.
Thanks, I'll give that a shot
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:27 PM
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I just went thru a similar situation with my '76...not running yet but my timing issue was resolved by moving the distributor gear one tooth as it sounds like you need to do.

Good luck,

Rahl
Old 12-27-2013, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkowi View Post
So I've reached the point in what oughta be a simple project where the War Department is becoming increasingly impatient; seems I'm spending too much time in my garage ...

Installed an MSD 6530 programmable ignition and have ran it as a "regular" box until I sent it into MSD for warranty service (wasn't communicating with my computers). Got the unit back from a couple of days ago and, communication issue resolved, I figured now would be a good time to lock the dizzy and take advantage of the 6530's ignition and boost retard features.

I've spent a lot of time reading the various posts on the subject and things seem pretty straight forward. So I disassembled the distributor, locked the weights and mag/stator wheel (can't remember the correct nomenclature while I'm typing this), reassembled and reinstalled.

Started the engine and let it warm up a bit then checked the timing with a dial-back light. With everything locked at full advance I'm getting only 18.1 total degrees of advance, so I'm looking for another 11 degrees (euro model = 29% total, right?)

I hate it when I can't figure things out and have to post, but here I am. Any insight and advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Norm
Hi Norm,
Can you post a picture of your retard curves from the 6530? I will take a look at them and see if this might be part of the problem.

Like others have suggested, sounds like you need to move the dizzy one tooth though to get you back in the middle part of the slotted window to allow you some more adjustment.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:15 AM
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Finally got back to the garage this morning. Moved the dizzy one tooth clockwise - no start. Moved it back, engine started but, as expected, timing issues hadn't changed. Moved it one tooth counter-clockwise - no start. This time, though, when I moved it back, the engine wouldn't start. Confirmed that it was back in its original position and tried again. Still no start. What the heck??? Checked cylinders 4,5 & 6 for spark - all good. Checked no. 4 for fuel - getting fuel. Thought maybe my advance lock job was sub-par (maybe something had come loose?) so I pulled the distributor to check. Although everything looked fine I wanted to go back to square one so I freed everything up, reinstalled the springs and vacuum pot, and put the distributor back in. Set the MSD to "neutral" and ... nada. Still have spark and fuel at no. 4 but the engine won't start. Took a break for coffee and a sandwich before having another look. When I unclipped the cap the clip came off in my hand - it broke right at the semi arc that hooks under the small bracket on the dizzy, so now the cap won't stay down. Mumbled an expletive or two under my breath, came inside and typed this. This is the first and only time this car has failed to start. There's fuel and there's spark. In the olden days, as I recall, that's pretty much all it took to get fire. I'm missing something here.
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Last edited by nkowi; 12-31-2013 at 12:15 PM..
Old 12-31-2013, 12:13 PM
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Stupid maybe, in that case I am sorry, but...

Are you sure you are not 180 degrees off?
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:52 PM
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Nothing wrong with that thought - actually wish it was that simple, but with the crank pulley on "Z" the rotor is on no. 1, so I don't think it's 180 out.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkowi View Post
Nothing wrong with that thought - actually wish it was that simple, but with the crank pulley on "Z" the rotor is on no. 1, so I don't think it's 180 out.
Belay what the idiot above said ...

Certainly don't remember rotating the engine after pulling the distributor - apparently I left more of my short-term memory in the seventies than I thought.

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Old 12-31-2013, 03:54 PM
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