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Get longer wheel studs or smaller wheel spacers. I don't know if you have enough threads engaged to be safe. I have done this (longer studs) and it is not too difficult or expensive.
Cars can be really dangerous when they are not correctly assembled. A wheel coming off at speed is not funny. |
You want a minimum of 3-4 threads on the stud protruding from a nut so the joint safely carries the load.
Our host sells just about any length of wheel stud that you could need and it's simple to remove the shorties and install the longer ones. You really shouldn't drive your car until you do this. |
What you've done to the wheel studs makes for a very dangerous situation for you and anyone nearby you on the road if one of your wheels comes off. There's not enough thread engagement left there.
If you use a hammer to drive those studs out of the hubs to replace them with longer ones a 2 pound brass hammer will work and help keep the ends of the studs from mushrooming. Or maybe you have a way to press them out if you do remove them. Maybe you should put flourescent paint signs on the back and sides of your car that say Danger keep a safe distance. |
Wow, what happened to you guys? Hey Robby, I've been to the Blue Mountains, stunning vistas.
I hang out on the 911 forum, but I'd be honored to send you my extra torque wrench, and even throw in some proper length wheel studs. PM your details. Keep trucking brother. |
This fellow can not be for real. I have customers who don't know one end of anything from another but they would know that a t-wrench doesn't remove seized bolts and that what he does to his wheel studs is out right and extremely dangerous. I usually say nothing about such mental shortcomings but damn this could get him and innocent others killed. I vote we Posse up and go seize his Porsche until he at least reads and understands the very basics.
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We might want to ban this guy. I sure hope he's just trollin us. Then again, he might have a big "pelican" sticker on his quarter panels.
Please take your car to a Porsche workshop somewhere! |
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But i do have a Torque wrench now, i got one from Bunnings near Springwood, As far as the wheel studs go ive solved the problem with some plastic ties over the ends of the thread, the small yellow ones fit between the threads perfectly, plus you can get other colours , blue, orange, green, etc.. im partial to the bright red ones ;) Please If any of you guys do come down to grab my car please bring a ROOF with you my car is completely roofless and it is difficult driving while holding an umbrella in he rain at the same time snatching gear changes :D:D:D:D:D:D |
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I had a look and the front wheel was so loose it was tracking off to the left and vibrating at a severe angle, which was not good as that day i drove it to Penrith down a road called Old bathurst road which is extremely step and windy.. He's closed down now no wonder ! |
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gee i didnt know that about a T wrench, And i had to think twice just now to understand that you mean a Torque Wrench How would a normal guy know that? Keep in mind that just because many here would find that such a basic skill it is also beyond many skill levels, I know people (men) who dont even know how to change a tire or add oil, Youll be surprised how many Because someone owns a Porsche does not automatically give him magic powers of Mechanical ability Which is why we cant assume that an AFR does not mean A Fluffy Rabbit to some drivers Which validates my reason for posting as there are so many people who dont understand but want to Anyway i have to take one of the kids to school , its raining so need to find the umbrella ;) |
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HEY im Serious !! |
Rob, regarding the info about torque wrenches - they shouldn't be used like a breaker bar (to loosen fully tightened nuts and bolts) as doing so damages them.
And you are probably tired of hearing about it by now, but one more thing about your wheel nut situation . . . when there is so little thread engagement on the studs the problem is not so much the nuts backing off, but the studs breaking. Basically, the very tip of the stud is bearing all of the load - much more force than it was designed to deal with - and eventually breaks off. I recently had a non-mechanic neighbor that replaced a bent wheel on his grocery getter, had a stud-nut situation almost identical to yours, and ALL of the studs broke after about a month of driving (front wheel came off while driving and the car slammed down on the hub). |
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For submarine application we go 1.5 to 1 diameter for that exact purpose. You don't want stud braking apart at DDST ;) |
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Australia really needs a Local place/site like Pelican Parts if anyone started similar here it would be a booming business, personally ive only been able to buy one part locally for my project with the rest had from Pelican and International ebay, and when there is a local part the price is so high it makes it more worthwhile to order from overseas pay the fright and wait two weeks.(providing its a small size). Im still looking for a complete roof though, Buying locally i found one for sale at $2800 OS i found one for $500 but because of the size the freight is over $3000 :( |
Are You in Australia Ronnie? its morning here Or are you up late?
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Yeah, he's messing around. Just asked me for five "wheel bolt thingies", or some such BS. No good deed. I'll go back to the Abby Normal forum.
PS. Kinda gettiin a Deliverance feeling here. Anyone else hear banjos. |
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What I see that you can improve: 1. Using a ground strap as a mechanical MSD restraint 2. Too short of wires made longer with spade terminals 3. Exposed spade terminals close to a major grounds strap 4. Wires too short with sharp bends (need strain relief) 5. Spades directly to the receptacle of a connector made for appropriate male connector 6. Zipties should always be fully cinched around whatever you're securing, not have excessive gaps. Gaps allow movement, then breakage. GL with future projects! |
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Robby, parts from th USA can be deivered to your door for less than half what you will pay in OZ BUT you can then take them to a good Porsche mechanic and get them fitted.
Just saying...... |
Thanks.
Thanks Tippy i know those things its all a mess i havent sorted out what goes where yet hence the elastic straps etc etc etc, im currently trouble shooting tach to get it working with the MSD, when i get the Tacho working ill definitely be reworking that mess, Immediate problem i have though is this im trying to get one out so i can go and purchase some the same but what to do next?? (someone did offer but turns out he wasnt being honest) i took out centre bolt and bit out of the Rim thinking that would allow removal of disc part but no go, theres 5 13mm nuts inside each hole but they dont do anything , Do i need to remove caliper to get these bolts out? Actually removing dosn't bother me i can grind it shorter its the putting new ones on as theyre going to be obviously longer, any links with PICS for this job on Front wheel only?, as i found reference with pics but only to the rears, do i follow a brake pad replacement instruction to get the ideas for this? the nuts are the spline type Ive already loosened them all so that parts done http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395639503.jpg |
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