The Right the Wrong and the Ugly
 

Anyway, since my amateur rebuild everything was ok until yesterday i lost all my boost power :( no more boosting to the moon !! so for the fourth time i took off the top of engine this month and my (Boost Sender unit) (the large round orange/brown plug) on the BOV assembly was almost about to fall out of the socket it was so loose, so i was lucky in finding this vacuum leak quickly, some Loctite (Loctite is stuff you buy that stops bits from falling off) and im glad that part isnt also up the road somewhere with the little air filter that i lost today..(another story)

I want to ask as theres so much information here and a previous great sticky on why my car wont start..

The Right

A BASIC checklist ordered from the easiest to the hardest fix to diagnose performance issues?
Maybe a sticky?
And to aim it primarily for the home mechanic , you know for those of us who thinks that an afr means A Fluffy Rabbit, for those who do not own special tools outside spark plug deinstallers, and for dumbazzes like me who finds a bolt that looks loose tightens it up only to have the front left of the car sitting a lot higher than it should be! :( My wife couldnt stop laughing when she noticed it before i did , embarrassing

I think it would be great im sure theres many people who read these forums and think thats it too hard to carry out any work outside putting air in the tires and miss out on the gratifying experience they could get :)

Could have topics answers like this
Performance is down so what to check....

1 Check parts are tightened on securely!

Having said that brings into (Torque adjusting) For those without a torque wrench and for those who cant read if one was to tighten down a nut say a Phenol? block on the main engine, how much do you tighten if you dont have a torque wrench, can you do it by feel? Guesstimate does this work most of the time or is it a dangerous practice?

Many of these things arent known i sure dont know them and so far ive had more then a couple of parts fall off my car with worst being my muffler.

What about wheel nuts?
do they need to be jumped on to get them as tight as possible or not?


If you find a part thats hanging and it looks like it goes somewhere it probably does!

Some Parts that are loose allow AIR to escape and this will affect idle speed and performance.

You dont need to take your car to a mechanic if you find a loose hose you can post a photo here and guys and girl will help :) and you WILL save money if that matters to you .

You will as a rule get an excellent diagnostic by posting here your problems as your getting the combined experience of Thousands of years give or take. :):) no pun intended im old too

The Wrong

And don't be embarrassed to post your Dumazz questions because they really aren't they are just questions and for many no one knows you personally :cool:

If i can Upgrade my 3.0 to a 3.3 and also do wiring that many wouldnt try
Then anyone can do it !!!

The Ugly

However im not quite ready to post pics of my engine build yet, well maybe on my art site i would but not here lol.

This is my wiring build modification, and as you see its sort of working, Ive never done wiring before so im pretty proud if it (IT DOES WORK) !! , except for dam tach !! grrr



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395400238.jpg

There is no substitute for a quality torque wrench. They aren't that expensive. Especially compared to the price of having to timesert a blind hole in a cylinder head cause it was over tightened and pulled the threads. Wayne's book has every torque value needed for touching an engine plus the generic M6, M8, M10 sizes.
There's my shot at answering one of the questions.

Needs more zip ties.

See here are two approaches, both of which will work :)

But.. a torque wrench is about $40 which is about $35 more than what i have, so im afraid i wont be doing any timecerts in the near future

So that limits the extent of work that can be carried out at home if you dont have the correct tools,
But many jobs can be done without them i guess a lot of trial and error, Mr Fairman is another one ive heard when tightening things he may use a short handled wrench and that is used as a guide, i like that idea thats how i did my Phenom Blocks, i tightened them as much as i could with the leverage i had in hand.. i wonder how close they are to spec :)

If you have ever had to grind off an overtightened seized wheel nut, you will soon have, at the very least, a clicker torque wrench in your tool box.

You really should get a torque wrench. The ones with a thick bar that bends while a thinner bar stays straight and points at the torque value on a plate next to the handle are very accurate as long as you go slow and can see the plate from the position you're in while using it and they are relatively cheap. Probably around $20 or so.

Ebay may be the lowest price place for one or try your local Sears store. Used ones are a low price option.
You can develop some feel for different size bolts to an extent with experience but then that feel changes with how much coffee you've had or if you get pissed off while doing the work or if you're in a hurry.

Please get a torque wrench, you'll be glad you did.

Hmmmmmm, my latest torque wrench was over $450.00 when purchased about 3 years ago - those 40 dollar ones you speak of are for chumps! :D

Here's a couple accurate and inexpensive beam type torque wrenches I found with a quick search.
A 3/8 drive one at Sears for less than 20 bucks: Sears.com

And this 1/2" and 3/8" drive one with free shipping: Neiko Classic Needle-Style Torque Wrench - Dual 3/8-Inch & 1/2-Inch Drive, 0-150 ft-lb, SAE & Metric - Rakuten.com Shopping

Only a snob would call you a chump for using one of these and I know some old school mechanics that prefer these to the clicker type ones because they don't need to be recalibrated periodically to remain accurate and instead of listening and feeling for the click to know when to stop tightening the fastener you see the torque read out on the pointer.
When using a beam type torque wrench you hold the pivoting handle so neither end of the handle touches the beam to keep the distance from where you're pulling on it from the pivot point in the middle of the handle to the socket drive constant.
They are very easy to use.

Should I, (or dare I) bring up the pre use inspection of a torque wrench... and the need to cycle it 4 to 6 times at its lowest setting to lubricate the internals, so an accuratereading can be given??

To the OP.... To be honest, I am kinda suprised your vehicle runs at all! Wires with blade terminal ends stuck into a plug? Bungee cord holding stuff from falling off? Wire ties that are not trimmed? I mean, I can understand seeing this on a beetle (that only has like 4 wires) but come on?!?!?!?!?

How can you even make and edjucated guess as to what is wrong after looking at the mess you have there?
Don't get me wrong, this is NOT an issue about not having the money... its about doing things the RIGHT way.
I am in NO way trying or wanting to put you down. But, please take some time to learn to do things the right way. It will only take a few extra minutes.... these are not Farmall tractors...

Or maybe someone with a sense of humor?

I certainly agree with turbobrat930 on the wiring or is it safe to assume that your wiring was only for testing? If not there is a fire waiting to happen..hopefully there are plans to clean it up..other than that good progress on you project.

Robby, get yourself down to SuperCheap Auto or Repco and buy a torque wrench. If you cant afford one, park the 930 until you can. these cars arent like old Holdens. They need TLC or you will be up for much more than the cost of a torque wrench.

You really need a torque wrench to properly work on any car, let alone a porsche.
That wiring, while functional really isn't safe.
GL

Yes i admit the wiring is temporary until i get the tacho working, ;)


OK Ive gone out and bought a soldering iron and a TORQUE WRENCH it came with a certificate and inspection slip so it is ready to go, cost me $85 not too bad, just means the dogs are eating salad for a while :)

I also got a few alligator clips to test the connections quicker until i find the right wire,

See Pic above can someone tell me if i have the ignition earthed is it safe to test the other sockets on the 8 pin plug with the white wire from the tach adapter,?
Im worried i might short something out, but i need to find out how to get it going, ive already attached it to the black purple wire in there but no luck, you can see the white wire in it now, but nothing :(

Before someone says to search the links here ive done that and ive gone exactly by the wiring diagram , nothing,, so i need to check them somehow individually..

So a (Clicker) Torque Wrench make nuts easier to get off if tight

Good to know,

I have an air compressor that has attachments including the apparatus (shaped like a pistol) to remove wheels,
Got to watch them as they spin very quickly so a good idea is to not wear loose clothing when using them, (especially your best long sleeved dinner shirt)

Ive used the compressor to do lots of things from spray painting luggage area and under car to just having the Air Ratchet nearby with a 13mm socket in it when working on engine makes work quick and much easier,

Speaking of wheel nuts i added spacers to my axles when i got my Fusch copies and the offset was quite different but i had already grinded my wheel nuts down from the wheels i had on before to make it tidier, trouble is ive only got about half a bite on each nut as the bolts are now too short, I remember for about two weeks i drove with white knuckles, now i just check them every once in a while ;)

Wow looking at that photo i think its time to check them the ones on the bottom look dodgy:eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395553785.jpg

^^^ Robby, are you trying to win a 2014 Darwin Award?!?! :D

Well Ronnie Its like if you dont look at the problem then there Isn't one
or if a tree falls in the forest with no one around does it make a sound?


So having said that...

If i feel any alignment out or a wobble ..or a sudden tip , slide, screeching halt while watching one or more of the wheels overtake me then i guess trees do make a sound????;);):D:D

Torque wrench is for tightening only...do not use it to remove your nuts(that's what the wife is for..:D)...use a breaker bar for removal.

also spend the money on the right nut and stud combo, for the look you want. Grinding down your nuts for a look(unless your trying to fit in tight speedos..lol) can never be a good thing. The nut is losing some of it's strength due to the heat created by the grinding plus the loss of metal.

Not sure how many turns there is on the stud but likely not enough.

As a minimum its at least the diameter of the stud.

mmm i had an idea of cutting the nuts in half to get 100% coverage on the bolts,
probably pushing it though..

Its funny since owning this car the only problem i have had with it is from human error, it has been exceptionally reliable, 235000 kilometres, that's almost to the moon :) and she still smells new, thats what i like about them the smell of leather when you get in every morning, its the best smell in the world :)

Get longer wheel studs or smaller wheel spacers. I don't know if you have enough threads engaged to be safe. I have done this (longer studs) and it is not too difficult or expensive.

Cars can be really dangerous when they are not correctly assembled. A wheel coming off at speed is not funny.

You want a minimum of 3-4 threads on the stud protruding from a nut so the joint safely carries the load.
Our host sells just about any length of wheel stud that you could need and it's simple to remove the shorties and install the longer ones. You really shouldn't drive your car until you do this.

What you've done to the wheel studs makes for a very dangerous situation for you and anyone nearby you on the road if one of your wheels comes off. There's not enough thread engagement left there.

If you use a hammer to drive those studs out of the hubs to replace them with longer ones a 2 pound brass hammer will work and help keep the ends of the studs from mushrooming. Or maybe you have a way to press them out if you do remove them.

Maybe you should put flourescent paint signs on the back and sides of your car that say Danger keep a safe distance.

Wow, what happened to you guys? Hey Robby, I've been to the Blue Mountains, stunning vistas.
I hang out on the 911 forum, but I'd be honored to send you my extra torque wrench, and even throw in some proper length wheel studs. PM your details. Keep trucking brother.

This fellow can not be for real. I have customers who don't know one end of anything from another but they would know that a t-wrench doesn't remove seized bolts and that what he does to his wheel studs is out right and extremely dangerous. I usually say nothing about such mental shortcomings but damn this could get him and innocent others killed. I vote we Posse up and go seize his Porsche until he at least reads and understands the very basics.

We might want to ban this guy. I sure hope he's just trollin us. Then again, he might have a big "pelican" sticker on his quarter panels.
Please take your car to a Porsche workshop somewhere!

Hi Richgas, Thanks for the offer,
But i do have a Torque wrench now, i got one from Bunnings near Springwood,

As far as the wheel studs go ive solved the problem with some plastic ties over the ends of the thread, the small yellow ones fit between the threads perfectly, plus you can get other colours , blue, orange, green, etc.. im partial to the bright red ones ;)


Please If any of you guys do come down to grab my car please bring a ROOF with you my car is completely roofless and it is difficult driving while holding an umbrella in he rain at the same time snatching gear changes

:D:D:D:D:D:D

Funny you should say that, when i got my new rims i took them to a local workshop under recommendation from a friend to put them on, four hours later after 2 phone calls (he said he was trying to be careful to not scratch the rims) I picked up the car and noticed a wobble

I had a look and the front wheel was so loose it was tracking off to the left and vibrating at a severe angle, which was not good as that day i drove it to Penrith down a road called Old bathurst road which is extremely step and windy.. He's closed down now no wonder !

Well played, Rob - I'm proud of you! :D

Actually Nuen im sure a few readers would be thinking right now,,
gee i didnt know that about a T wrench,

And i had to think twice just now to understand that you mean a Torque Wrench

How would a normal guy know that?
Keep in mind that just because many here would find that such a basic skill it is also beyond many skill levels,
I know people (men) who dont even know how to change a tire or add oil,
Youll be surprised how many

Because someone owns a Porsche does not automatically give him magic powers of Mechanical ability

Which is why we cant assume that an AFR does not mean A Fluffy Rabbit to some drivers

Which validates my reason for posting as there are so many people who dont understand but want to

Anyway i have to take one of the kids to school , its raining so need to find the umbrella ;)

HEY im Serious !!

Rob, regarding the info about torque wrenches - they shouldn't be used like a breaker bar (to loosen fully tightened nuts and bolts) as doing so damages them.

And you are probably tired of hearing about it by now, but one more thing about your wheel nut situation . . . when there is so little thread engagement on the studs the problem is not so much the nuts backing off, but the studs breaking. Basically, the very tip of the stud is bearing all of the load - much more force than it was designed to deal with - and eventually breaks off. I recently had a non-mechanic neighbor that replaced a bent wheel on his grocery getter, had a stud-nut situation almost identical to yours, and ALL of the studs broke after about a month of driving (front wheel came off while driving and the car slammed down on the hub).

Perfect explanation.

For submarine application we go 1.5 to 1 diameter for that exact purpose.

You don't want stud braking apart at DDST ;)

Thanks Ronnie, that is well noted :)
Australia really needs a Local place/site like Pelican Parts if anyone started similar here it would be a booming business, personally ive only been able to buy one part locally for my project with the rest had from Pelican and International ebay, and when there is a local part the price is so high it makes it more worthwhile to order from overseas pay the fright and wait two weeks.(providing its a small size).

Im still looking for a complete roof though,
Buying locally i found one for sale at $2800
OS i found one for $500 but because of the size the freight is over $3000 :(

Are You in Australia Ronnie? its morning here Or are you up late?

Yeah, he's messing around. Just asked me for five "wheel bolt thingies", or some such BS. No good deed. I'll go back to the Abby Normal forum.

PS. Kinda gettiin a Deliverance feeling here. Anyone else hear banjos.

Now looking at this photo on my iPad, I see lots of concerns. There's a handbook I received years ago when I was an aviation mechanic that had best practices for fasteners and wiring. It's a great resource that would help when in need on these projects. Following the techniques meets aviation requirements, so above and beyond requirements of an automobile.

What I see that you can improve:

1. Using a ground strap as a mechanical MSD restraint
2. Too short of wires made longer with spade terminals
3. Exposed spade terminals close to a major grounds strap
4. Wires too short with sharp bends (need strain relief)
5. Spades directly to the receptacle of a connector made for appropriate male connector
6. Zipties should always be fully cinched around whatever you're securing, not have excessive gaps. Gaps allow movement, then breakage.

GL with future projects!

Rob, I live in the southern United States (Texas) - it's 7:30 PM, Sunday here.

Robby, parts from th USA can be deivered to your door for less than half what you will pay in OZ BUT you can then take them to a good Porsche mechanic and get them fitted.
Just saying......

Thanks.

Thanks Tippy
i know those things its all a mess i havent sorted out what goes where yet hence the elastic straps etc etc etc, im currently trouble shooting tach to get it working with the MSD, when i get the Tacho working ill definitely be reworking that mess,

Immediate problem i have though is this
im trying to get one out so i can go and purchase some the same but what to do next??
(someone did offer but turns out he wasnt being honest)

i took out centre bolt and bit out of the Rim thinking that would allow removal of disc part but no go, theres 5 13mm nuts inside each hole but they dont do anything ,

Do i need to remove caliper to get these bolts out?
Actually removing dosn't bother me i can grind it shorter its the putting new ones on as theyre going to be obviously longer, any links with PICS for this job on Front wheel only?, as i found reference with pics but only to the rears, do i follow a brake pad replacement instruction to get the ideas for this? the nuts are the spline type

Ive already loosened them all so that parts done

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395639503.jpg