Rear Height adjusting pita

[Robbbyg]

My left rear side is too low i want to adjust it higher,

Ive frozen the nut with freeze spray to allow lubriant to get in, this stuff workd well with exhaust studs, ive tried that ive tried wd40 too..

Ive tried a metre long friggin pole using a jack to undo the flipping friggin nut,
all im achieving is raising the car up.. so it must be torqued pretty tight..

Anyone had problem with these nuts? How did you get them off (i dont own a welder yet) so i need to look at other ideas that might work..

check it out lol



see closeup , its raised the rear of car an inch and still wont budge, im afraid it will break something..



pushing it to the limit.. Cant move the NUT
The Jack is tilting, i twisted one extension bar already trying to get the nut off

If i was a woman id know what it feels like to have a baby i reckon

[gumba]

I tried everything, then bought a impact hammer in the 400-500 lb range, loosened right up. Make sure you make some reference marks before you loosen things up.
The factory adjustable spring plates have about an 1" adjustment, have you tried that?

[dos531]

I'm not sure about how to get that off, but I wanted to mention that you should not use a torque wrench as a breaker bar.

[infraredcalvin]

Originally Posted by gumba

I tried everything, then bought a impact hammer in the 400-500 lb range, loosened right up. Make sure you make some reference marks before you loosen things up.
The factory adjustable spring plates have about an 1" adjustment, have you tried that?

+1 on the impact hammer, or buy a 3/4" breaker bar and a 4 foot sturdy pipe (don't bother with a 1/2 in, I've broken several on hub nuts... Crank that with all your weight pushing DOWN! In your pics you're going to lift the car and knock it off the jack stands.

BTW the breaker bar and associated extensions and socket will prob cost as much as a cheap impact hammer, so pick your poison.

Also assuming you have older spring plates w/out the adjustment screw...

[infraredcalvin]

Oh yeah, you may want to move the banana arm around, in some positions it puts more load on that bolt you're trying to remove, working against the leverage you're trying to create. Try unbolting the shock and letting the arm fully extend, taking the load off the torsion bars. Be sure to support the arm with a jack before pounding the shock bolt out.

Heat them up with a mapp torch, careful of overheating the alum trailing arm, throw out wd40 and find some pb blaster or kroil. If not people have had luck with home brew 50% acetone + 50% ATF.

[Robbbyg]

Ok thx guys

I was using torque wrench for leverage its the longest thing i could put together

But I can do the Air hammer ill try that i have one , didnt think of it never used it as yet..

But adjustable spring plates ??
Thats what im adjusting above .. or are we talkng about different things??

thanks

hopefully no more blood

[gumba]

The stock spring plate has an adjustment nut that let's you adjust the plate without taking it off, about 1", if you have those.

[fredmeister]

Kroll is the best stuff for rusty bolts, but PB Blaster works ok too.

I wanted to point out something not sure if you considered this before deciding to lower the corner. you will be throwing out the corner balance on your car as soon as you start lowering different corners of the car. Assuming you lower the corner here you really should get the car corner balanced again to get your suspension wheel rates back in correct balance or the car will handle badly.

Just something you should think about. It might be worth your while to have a shop that does the corner balance worry about getting the bolts lose and lowering the car to your specs. Kill two birds with one stone.

Good luck,
Fred

[JFairman]

I had those bolts and nuts on and off, tightened and loosened many times over when I took the rear suspension out to install elephant racing polybronze spring plate bushings and rennline monoball spherical bearings in the trailing arm mounts and then did a home wheel alighnment.

You're in for a lot of work if you do the alignment part yourself
Adjusting toe and camber in the rear suspension of these cars is hit and miss until you figure out how it's done, develop a routine for taking measurments and then do it again and again until it's right because there is no way to do those adjustments while the car is on the ground and the toe changes when the car is up in the air and the wheels go to full positive camber while the car is up in the air. So you figure out a way to take measurments while it's up in the air while loosening those bolts and moving things just a little bit and then putting it back down on the ground to measure what your adjustments did.

You want around .5 degrees of negative camber in the rear wheels and about 1/16" of toe in for even tire wear and good handleing on the street when the car is on the ground and the suspension has settled after driving the car.
For track use you want more negative camber and the toe setting is up to the drivers handleing preferences.

[JFairman]

For removing those spring plate to trailing arm bolts I used a half inch drive wrench with a piece of pipe on the handle for more leverage and a box end wrech on the nut to hold it from turning.
I did not use an extension between the wrench and socket. It would be hard to hold that and it's just the wrong way to do it. I sat on the ground next to it and did it all by hand. I used a torque wrench to tighten them good. You don't want them coming loose.

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by Robbbyg

But I can do the Air hammer ill try that i have one , didnt think of it never used it as yet..

Robby, how do you plan to use an air hammer for this - are you going to attempt to spin the nuts counter clockwise with a chisel bit? That seems a little extreme - perhaps try an air impact driver first?

[infraredcalvin]

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

Robby, how do you plan to use an air hammer for this - are you going to attempt to spin the nuts counter clockwise with a chisel bit? That seems a little extreme - perhaps try an air impact driver first?

I think were all talking about the same thing... But I get your message...

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by infraredcalvin

I think were all talking about the same thing... But I get your message...

I was just yankin' Rob's chain a bit - need to make up for lost time!

And PS - with Robby you never know - he might actually be talking about an air hammer!!!

[quattrorunner]

Ronnie's got a green light!! Or a day pass

[JFairman]

Good to see you back Ronnie. I hope all's well.

[Ronnie's.930]

Brandon, yep - will try to make the day pass last a bit longer this time - ha!

Thanks Jim, it's good to be back!

Oh, and Jim, you might have read a bit about it in a post from Paul and/or Eric, but I'm about to complete a nifty mod to the 1987 evaperator blower & box top - will post about it at some point soon. I mention this as I know that you are as hellbent on having decent a/c as I am, so am sure you will find it interesting.

[JFairman]

Sounds real interesting! The original fan hardly moves any air through the front condensor.
I have one of those rennaire "desert duty" serpentine condensors there and it's around 2" thick. I think a fan motor that would fit in the plastic housing (if there is one) and spin that little squirrel cage fan a lot faster might help.
I put an inline fuse in the wire to that motor because they are unfused from Porsche.
Alot of Florida Porsches burned down in the 80's because that unfused front condensor fan motor ran all the time and eventually seized, melted the plastic, and started a fire right next to the gas tank.
Looking forward to your fan motor replacement!

[Robbbyg]

Originally Posted by JFairman

I had those bolts and nuts on and off, tightened and loosened many times over when I took the rear suspension out to install elephant racing polybronze spring plate bushings and rennline monoball spherical bearings in the trailing arm mounts and then did a home wheel alighnment.

You're in for a lot of work if you do the alignment part yourself
Adjusting toe and camber in the rear suspension of these cars is hit and miss until you figure out how it's done, develop a routine for taking measurments and then do it again and again until it's right because there is no way to do those adjustments while the car is on the ground and the toe changes when the car is up in the air and the wheels go to full positive camber while the car is up in the air. So you figure out a way to take measurments while it's up in the air while loosening those bolts and moving things just a little bit and then putting it back down on the ground to measure what your adjustments did.

You want around .5 degrees of negative camber in the rear wheels and about 1/16" of toe in for even tire wear and good handleing on the street when the car is on the ground and the suspension has settled after driving the car.
For track use you want more negative camber and the toe setting is up to the drivers handleing preferences.

Im not touching the alignment or Camber,, not needed not warranted, as I said im just raising about an inch on that side, im only affecting the height via Radius arm, im leaving camber alone its sorted.
I only need to loosen the nut closest the front so I can then turn the next one (Radius) to my height. I don't wish to change the ride at all the car rides fine as it is, If it aint broke don't fix it. the height im adjusting is for aesthetic purposes only, nothing else.

[Robbbyg]

Ahh you got a get out of jail card Ronnie?

Why were you banned?

[Robbbyg]

Originally Posted by fredmeister

Kroll is the best stuff for rusty bolts, but PB Blaster works ok too.

I wanted to point out something not sure if you considered this before deciding to lower the corner. you will be throwing out the corner balance on your car as soon as you start lowering different corners of the car. Assuming you lower the corner here you really should get the car corner balanced again to get your suspension wheel rates back in correct balance or the car will handle badly.

Just something you should think about. It might be worth your while to have a shop that does the corner balance worry about getting the bolts lose and lowering the car to your specs. Kill two birds with one stone.

Good luck,
Fred

(Rusty bolts?)

RUSTY??
that's a swear word

My car has no experience with rust of any kind ill have you know