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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: tulsa ok
Posts: 2
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Turn Signal Issue
I tried asking this about a week ago but apparently it didn't take. ( tech is not my strong suit ). So...I have an '87 Targa w/a non-blinking LF turn signal. The hazard will not flash LF either. All other lights- front & back, hazard or turn, pass side- work just fine. Tho the left turn signal ( f & r ) flash faster than the right. Seemingly unrelated if i hit a bump or pothole, even a small one, the brights come on. A tap on the stalk returns lights to normal. Since it's the same switch I mention this as a possible culprit, tho it seems unlikely. New to tracking these things down & repairing, so...any thoughts ? Appreciate any help. Thx/jg
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Dumb question, but did you verify its a good bulb or voltage to the bulb socket?
If not the stupid answer above, I'd suspect the stalk, seems like you have an issue to resolve there anyway.
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Infraredcalvin - AKA Pat '76 Turbo Carrera #311 - Factory LSD, Sport Seats ‘71 914-6 GT 3.4L twin plug track car '75 914 GT clone project '71 914 track car, fresh 2165 FAT motor (for sale soon) |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,325
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try swapping bulbs,. lft to rt. the current draw on the bulb can effect it.
your post was a little confusing. you said the lft front does not blink. then you said "tho the left turn (f&r) flash faster" i take f&r to mean front and rear (left). but you said the left front does not blink. does the lft fr just come on and stay on? and the left rear does not flash? i hate turn signals
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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Registered
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I believe the turn signal will speed up if a bulb or fuse has blown, indicating there problem.
Check the bulbs and fuses. If the fuse(s) blown you could have a short, or possible grounding issue @ the Left Front turn signal. This happened to me when I first got my car. I ended up taking the turn signal assembly apart, sanding all the connections, and making sure that there weren't any exposed wires shorting out. Worked like a charm.
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1988 Porsche 930 Targa - 3.4L Twin Plug Motor, DC 13 Cams, Supertec Head Studs, ARP Rod Bolts, Port and Polished Heads, Garretson Andial Intercooler, GSX 61 BB Stage 5Turbo, Tial F46 WG .8 Bar Spring, PowerHaus Headers, Rarly8 Dual Tip Muffler, MS3 Pro EFI conversion, 85lbs. Injectors, Center Force Stage 2 Clutch , Rebuilt 4 Speed with LSD. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Central Washington State
Posts: 4,412
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No different than any other car. If it blinks at all, there is power to it...so don't look for a blown fuse. Usually it's one or the other light (on the same side of the vehicle, of course) that's burned out. Or a dirty connection. Pop off both the tail light and the front blinker light lenses, take out the bulb, inspect it or put an ohm meter across the terminals to look for continuity. And while in there, take some degreaser (brakeclean works well and dries almost instantly) to hose out the receptacle.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, B&B intercooler, stock 3LDZ. |
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Mark is spot on . I am still trying to figure out why if I have the L or R blinker on when I turn key off all my running lights stay on its one of those don't forget to turn the blinkers off problems for now
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Quote:
Having good, strong grounds are really important on the whole blinker/parking light circuit. After having similair issues like the OP, the first thing I did was redo/clean/brush all the ground points and haven't had a problem since.
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Kyle 1980 911sc 3.2 Turbo, 930 Trans 2006 BMW 330i 6mt (DD) |
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Registered User
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jguptick993, I had the same problems you described on my '86 930.
Blinkers worked when they wanted, had beams and when I switched to the high-beams it all turned-off. After checking all lights and lack of current on some lights, I checked the switch and found the problem. All contacts are in a plastic cover and since the whole current from the beams goes through the switch, it got hot and started to melt the plastic mould that holds the contacts thus seizing them up in the open position. A simple blinkers/beams switch change and the problems were solved. A couple hours of work to change the part (which is under $100 when i bought it) and it should all come back to normal.
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