Quite righteous werk there Jeff, and agreed w/ Ken - yer crushing it this wintar!

The feeling you are going to get every time you set eyes upon your motor or go for a whirl now going forward will be immense satisfaction and major PRIDE with what you DIY'd!!!

ubercool

And I sadly / pathetically / unfortunately also agree with Kenster... I've been a total loaf this winter too regarding even laying eyes upon my car. I walk past it, go in the WARM HOUSE.

sigh

SUCKS

I've got a Wevo to install and some 100w/130w's :D... shouldn't be an eve's effort, but alas..........

Thanks Ken. The trick is getting started. For me, it was after I saw my first CC bill when buying things, I said "Crap! I better put this stuff in now!" Once started, it has become nearly an obsession. Since I live alone when I don't have my kids, my entire house is starting to get parts strewn all over. My office is completely filled with parts I have taken off. My living room has my seats. I was using my kitchen sink to clean parts the other day. I finished and just left them on the counter to dry. (Try that, you married guys...) Makes it easier to keep going instead of cleaning up all the time.

Spring is here (well, except for the snow on Friday), so get going!!

^^^ Hilarious Jeff - yer home/shop situation basically mirrors mine! BUTT I'll add that my home, interior rooms also serve as "drying areas" for freshly painted parts - not talking about only a bracket or two I just rattled canned, but complete aircraft interior panel sets that just had a quart of urethane sprayed on them and so forth (anything I can fit through the outside doors, in other words)! On, and I also use the kitchen oven to bake parts in! :D

Are you married Ronnie? If so, you have a very understanding wife. I know my ex wouldn't have put up with my project taking over the house.

You building airplanes too? Cool! I am sticking to engine tins and the like for my painting and that stays in the garage. I had to leave my 4Runner outside for the first time this winter because of the painting I was doing. I was not happy in the morning. Yes I know, first world problems complaining about parking outside one night for the entire winter.

All fuel lines done!
Len Cummings apparently had never fabricated late model 930 lines before, so I sent him my old ones and he created them. They are excellent. His service is second to none. I mentioned that one of the rear lines was a little tight and without asking, he shipped me out a new one just a little longer the same day. It is now perfect. He also shipped me the bushings and told me when I get mine from Pelican, to just send them to him with the old line. Who does that?? So impressed.
I pulled the tunnel lines through in literally 5 minutes with his coupler. The one metal clip in front of the shifter was a slight hangup, but that's it. The front lines were a bear! Getting it through the hanger over the steering rack caused much cursing and swearing, but I got it done. Removing my bump steer shims was required to get the clearance to feed them through.

Anyone with later model 930's that needs fuel lines, Len now has the exact setup. Highly recommended!

A couple pics:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427434882.jpg
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What's this?
A hooligan, you say?
Why, yes it is!

Dry fit it tonight with the k27hfs and with a little modification of the turbo mount bracket, it bolted right up!

Love it!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427518778.jpg

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http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...rburns_2-1.jpg

Well done dewd! Tits, huh?

Awesome on the fuel lines, and agreed - Len's da man!

I helped my bud up the street run his Len lines thru his SC tunnel last week - not particularly fun. And that was WITH the rack removed.

The fronts were easy as such. But, one line fitting kept snagging an edged lip within the rear of boxed tunnel... took some creativity to surmount. Fun stuff.

That is freekin nice!

Got the Turbokraft IC mounted last night.

Spent a good bit of time on the phone with Chris Carroll, who helped me immensely!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427916877.jpg

^^^^ Beautiful job! I've got an almost identical setup on my car.. TurboKraft intercooler and all.... You'll love it! I went dual exit muffler, but I must say, I like your setup as well! Good luck and thanks for the updates! You should have a great spring/summer sir!

It was finally a nice day and I was actually home early, so it was time to clean the transmission with a power-washer.
I also replaced the shift shaft seal (leaking trans fluid), repainted the trans mount bar and replaced the trans mounts with Elephant Racing mounts that are a little stiffer, for better shifting.

Before:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428037312.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428037395.jpg

And after:



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428037460.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428037504.jpg

Sperr diff = Locking differential SmileWavy

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428037523.jpg

DAYUM

I ohsototally couldashoulda power washed mine - just brushed w/ degreaser, etc. DUMBMASS.

That came out niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice.

Excellent werk, dewd!

Weather's a-comin, and you've turned the corner nicely - yer almost there!

As we know, part of getting all the HP you can out of these air-cooled cars is sealing off the engine bay as best as possible, so the air getting pulled in by the fan must go through the intercooler as much as possible. Good sealing is like free horsepower.
With that in mind, I replaced the foam seal in the front of the engine bay with high quality foam and made it seal better than it was from the factory.

Also replaced the foam sound pad in the front firewall, and cleaned and lubed the flapper valves for the cabin heat.

Running the vacuum hoses tonight for the blow-off valve, the vacuum limiter and the Vacuum/boost gauge.



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Anyone do anything trick with sealing up the holes in the engine tins where the hoses went through that are no longer needed? Trying to find solid rubber plugs to put in there without much luck.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428375100.jpg

Jeff I've heard that a good seal around the intercooler is a huge plus but sealing the rest of the holes might be a waste of time. The fan pulls in air for the engine not the intercooler...sealing the holes might be counter productive...that fan needs all the air it can get...then again I could be completely wrong with my assesment..:D

p.s.....love your project..

Hey Rey! Thanks!

I could be completely wrong with my assessment too :D, but this is the way I see it: The fan doesn't care where the air comes from. The air will always come from the path of least resistance, regardless where that hole is in the engine bay. If the tins were off, that would dramatically increase the airflow around the engine where the tins were and would reduce the air coming through the IC that is more resistant to flow. By closing off as much as possible, especially big holes, the IC becomes the path of least resistance for most air, which is the goal. You are correct that the engine needs a specific amount of airflow for proper cooling. The trick is to have only enough open spaces so that as much air as possible goes through the IC.

For example: If you need 100 cubic ft per minute (CFM) of airflow (random number as an example) over the engine for proper cooling, and the IC is capable of 70 CFM, ideally, you would want to close off as much as possible around the engine so that only 30 CFM comes from elsewhere. If you can get 60CFM from holes around the engine or IC because it is not blocked off, all 60 of the required 100 would come from here because it is the path of least resistance. Then only 40 would come through the IC, which robs HP. As long as you get your required 100CFM, the engine will be happy. Maximizing airflow through the IC makes it more efficient.

Since I have the AC condenser on my decklid too, those two combined are more than enough airflow for the engine cooling, so, IMO, closing up all the other air access paths is helpful and increases IC and AC efficiency.

Thoughts?

Looks like you're doing a nice neat job on everything Jeff.
For that hole on the right side tin that has a nice little folded up edge so it won't cut into a rubber hose I ran a hose from the top of the 930 oil seperator down through it and then I put one of those K&N type breather filters on the end about 2" below the tins bottom surface.
My car had the air pump system on it when I got it and I removed it because we don't have emission testing in Florida. I used the original long air pump hose that crossed over the top of the engine for that.

I did this because I don't like running blow by fumes back into the intake and letting it vent into the engine compartment is not good because you'll be breathing blowby fumes when running heat or defroster heat in the winter as the engine fan will be sucking in some of the blowby fumes and it is the source of hot air for interior heat and windsheild defrosting during cold weather.

For the rest of the open engine tin holes rubber plugs might work but if they are above the turbocharger the intense heat will dry out a rubber plug in a few months. If you can find silicone rubber plugs they will work well.

For the original turbo drip tank engine tin vent hose hole that is right above the turbo I used two large washers.. one above and one below the tin with a bolt and nut holding them together to plug the hole. Then I painted them black with black exhaust header paint.

Thanks for the good ideas Jim.
Is there any good reason to vent the drip tank? The one I am getting can be vented, but doesn't have to be. I'm leaning toward not venting since I have no airbox anymore to vent it to...

So I think I am done with my motor.
The IC is completely plumbed and installed.
All vacuum lines have been re-run removing the relays and all the rest of the emissions junk. (air pumps, air injectors, etc) Gotta be 25 lbs of crap removed.
The TiAl wastegate is installed with a 1.0 bar spring. Check out the dump pipe in the pic below! When I hit full boost and the wastegate opens up, it is just a glorious sound.
Turbo drip tank is installed.
All engine tins are installed. Still working on sealing them up per Jim's advice above.
Airbox is removed and replaced with K&N filter, (Thanks Will - aka Oldspool87!)saving lots of weight up high on the engine.
New motor mount crossbar is installed.

Now I have to pull if off the engine stand, remove the flywheel and get it resurfaced. Then I install the new clutch with the flywheel, connect the trans to the motor and I'm ready to put it back into the car!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429250006.jpg

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dewdius - NOICE

get GOIN on that there clutch / FW!!!

VERY nice lookin werk, Chiefy - yer gonna have some glorious feelings of accomplishment - almost thar!

now

HIGHLY suggest you take advantage of that niftily provided o2bung (I've got an early gen and had to buy mine and have it cut / welded in) and pick up a WB02.

Sure it's another (!!!) couplafew hundo clams - but - as you've well read here... driving / tuning these POS's is Helen Kelleresque sans. Do it now whilst you've got fantabulous routing access - you will NOT regret this.

(wait - aren't you one of the dewdz running a PLX? Yer 3/4 the way there!)

Jeff, very nice clean work there. Everything looks absolutely proper.

I think you missed one small detail. The 2nd picture from the top...o2 sensor bung is unoccupied. You should have an o2 sensor there feeding a wide-band afr gauge in the cockpit so you can monitor. Its obvious that you are precise sort of person based on the cleanliness of your work here...you don't want to be guessing about the state of tune and fuel delivery - you want actual data and w/b afr gives it to you.

>and crikey I just read Paul's post and he's said exactly the same thing. Motion carries...we just spent a few hundred more dollars for you:D

heh, ^great mindz^

kinda funny!

Yes, already have the plx wideband afr sensor and boost/vacuum sensor. Vacuum hose and sensor cable are already run through the firewall. The boxes are already installed under my seat (documented in a prior post )

Also have the data cable for logging while driving.

Of course, I have never tuned a 930, so I'm sure I'll be asking for help when I get to that step!

So expanding on this a little. See the pic below. The hose from the top of the oil separator (labeled A) T's off a larger line from the oil filler neck to the airbox. I no longer have an airbox, so I want to vent to outside the engine as Jim said. What do I do with the hose from the filler neck (labeled B)? Do I cap that off, or do I extend the current hose (labeled C) that would plug into the airbox down through the tin and add a K&N breather hose filter so that the separator and the filler neck are both vented?

I have seen some pics of oil breather catch cans. How have people done that?

Also, the cloth covered line (labeled D) from the carbon canister over the passenger side rear wheel used to go to the airbox. What do I do with that now?


Help please!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429678016.jpg

Jeff,

You do not want to plug "B" (different than Paul's "b" which stands for you-know-what, and absolutely needs plugging) as the oil tank definitely needs to vent.

Here's my setup - I made my own catch can out of an old, 1 quart, paint gun pot. I bought the hose fittings/barbs at a local hardware store. I attached "c" and "d" to the can, and then ran the top hose from the can out under the car next to the a/c refrigerant hose. Attaching "d" to the can was probably a waste of time (could simply just take the hose off and let the charcoal canister vent into the wheel well).

The hose barbs are attached to the can with nuts (Paul's) and sealed to it with good ole' JB Weld. The bracket is riveted to the can and the rivets are sealed with JB. Robby and Brandon would be proud!!!

I've almost decided that the catch can is unnecessary and I could have just run hoses from the OEM separator "a" and the tank vent "b" straight outside of the car as I never get much of anything in the catch can except some water and a slight amount of oily film.

Pics -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429739020.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429739044.jpg

That's a nice setup Ronnie! Your last sentence is probably the deciding one for me though. If you never get anything into it, then why use it? I emailed back and forth with Chris Carroll last night and he suggested venting to the outside as the best solution too.

One question though: Are Paul's nuts really what you used to attach your hose to your can?

Thanks.

And regarding Paul's nuts - I had to use replicas (about 20 of them) to attach the hose barbs since there was an inadequate size problem with the originals!

Just to further Ronnies post, I would say that a catch can is not entirely necessary and you can vent to atmosphere, but you will want to run the oil on the low end of the dipstick. even so, if you get the oil really hot, and you are driving in a spirited manner, you might get some oil pukage anyway. You would be surprised at how much the oil level rises when the oil is really hot. That stuff expands a bunch IME.

^^^ Good point about situations were oil can come out of the tank vent, Jacob.

Thanks Jake and Ronnie.

I got the charcoal canister hose pulled out and wrapped up above the canister.

I do run my oil level on the lower half of the dipstick already, so I'm going to get some hoses and couplers/reducers and fab something up and see what happens.

Got my engine off the stand this past weekend.

Pulled the flywheel and got it resurfaced today.

Replaced the rear main seal. It was leaking a little.

Ready to install the clutch, then mate up the trans to the motor.

If the stars align, I could have my motor in this weekend!

Some pics:
Before and after for my flywheel
RMS installed and cleaned up
Front suspension buttoned up and front wheels on for the first time since January!


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Jeff - great work on your car. Coming along nicely!

Not sure if you're aware, but there's a pretty sizable cars and coffee taking place this Sunday at Paul Miller Porsche in Parsipanny. Last year it was overflowing with some really nice cars. Weather looks good for this Sunday so it should be equally well attended. I plan to go. Shoot me a PM if you do as well.

SUNDAY APRIL 26TH
9:00-1:00pm,

ALL NEW PAUL MILLER PORSCHE
3419 Route 46 East, Parsippany.

Hey John! We still need to meet up for that beer...

Opening day for softball season is... Sunday 9am. So I will miss it this time.

I work like 5 minutes from Paul Miller. Is it always on Sunday mornings? I would love to go.

Nice work your doing there. Motor looks spectacular.

Hi Jeff, looking good!
Be sure to disconnect the braided oil line from the turbo drip tank and spin the motor on the starter motor until oil pressure builds up and oil starts coming out of the drip tank.
(That will happen fastest and will be easier on the starter motor with no spark plugs in the motor)
Then you know the turbo bearing housing has plenty of motor oil in it and it's safe to start the motor.

Thanks pkabush!


Thanks Jim. Funny, I was literally just reading your instructions that you generously provided with the K27 that said exactly the same thing! I mean like 45 seconds ago.

Working on installing the clutch now and cant find my clutch alignment tool, so while looking for it, I saw the directions and read them just to make sure I didn't F anything up already!

Found my clutch alignment tool and the clutch is on (with a little help from Chris C ;) ).

Question - do I lube the front of the throw-out earing where the tabs of the pressure plate hit it? Currently when twisting the TO bearing it will make a metallic scraping sound against the PP tabs, so I want to lube it, but am not sure if there are any reasons why it either doesn't matter or worse, shouldn't be done (grease getting on friction disc, etc). I looked through the clutch instructions here online and in the shop manual and it doesn't clearly say to lube it.

FYI - I did lube the needle bearing and the splines in the friction disc and will lube the guide sleeve when installing the trans. Anything else I should lube? (yes, I realize this last question will cause a frenzy of posts by both Ronnie and Paul! :D)

Any help is appreciated!

thanks

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429989347.jpg

You don't grease the diaphram spring fingers where they fit into the throw out bearing groove if thats what you mean. They stay dry.
Any grease there would fling out and probably go where you don't want it.

That's what I meant and that is why I asked BEFORE I did it.
Thanks Jim!