|
dewdius - NOICE
get GOIN on that there clutch / FW!!! VERY nice lookin werk, Chiefy - yer gonna have some glorious feelings of accomplishment - almost thar! now HIGHLY suggest you take advantage of that niftily provided o2bung (I've got an early gen and had to buy mine and have it cut / welded in) and pick up a WB02. Sure it's another (!!!) couplafew hundo clams - but - as you've well read here... driving / tuning these POS's is Helen Kelleresque sans. Do it now whilst you've got fantabulous routing access - you will NOT regret this. (wait - aren't you one of the dewdz running a PLX? Yer 3/4 the way there!) |
Jeff, very nice clean work there. Everything looks absolutely proper.
I think you missed one small detail. The 2nd picture from the top...o2 sensor bung is unoccupied. You should have an o2 sensor there feeding a wide-band afr gauge in the cockpit so you can monitor. Its obvious that you are precise sort of person based on the cleanliness of your work here...you don't want to be guessing about the state of tune and fuel delivery - you want actual data and w/b afr gives it to you. >and crikey I just read Paul's post and he's said exactly the same thing. Motion carries...we just spent a few hundred more dollars for you:D |
heh, ^great mindz^
kinda funny! |
Yes, already have the plx wideband afr sensor and boost/vacuum sensor. Vacuum hose and sensor cable are already run through the firewall. The boxes are already installed under my seat (documented in a prior post )
Also have the data cable for logging while driving. Of course, I have never tuned a 930, so I'm sure I'll be asking for help when I get to that step! |
Quote:
I have seen some pics of oil breather catch cans. How have people done that? Also, the cloth covered line (labeled D) from the carbon canister over the passenger side rear wheel used to go to the airbox. What do I do with that now? Help please! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429678016.jpg |
Jeff,
You do not want to plug "B" (different than Paul's "b" which stands for you-know-what, and absolutely needs plugging) as the oil tank definitely needs to vent. Here's my setup - I made my own catch can out of an old, 1 quart, paint gun pot. I bought the hose fittings/barbs at a local hardware store. I attached "c" and "d" to the can, and then ran the top hose from the can out under the car next to the a/c refrigerant hose. Attaching "d" to the can was probably a waste of time (could simply just take the hose off and let the charcoal canister vent into the wheel well). The hose barbs are attached to the can with nuts (Paul's) and sealed to it with good ole' JB Weld. The bracket is riveted to the can and the rivets are sealed with JB. Robby and Brandon would be proud!!! I've almost decided that the catch can is unnecessary and I could have just run hoses from the OEM separator "a" and the tank vent "b" straight outside of the car as I never get much of anything in the catch can except some water and a slight amount of oily film. Pics - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429739020.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429739044.jpg |
That's a nice setup Ronnie! Your last sentence is probably the deciding one for me though. If you never get anything into it, then why use it? I emailed back and forth with Chris Carroll last night and he suggested venting to the outside as the best solution too.
One question though: Are Paul's nuts really what you used to attach your hose to your can? |
Quote:
Thanks. And regarding Paul's nuts - I had to use replicas (about 20 of them) to attach the hose barbs since there was an inadequate size problem with the originals! |
Just to further Ronnies post, I would say that a catch can is not entirely necessary and you can vent to atmosphere, but you will want to run the oil on the low end of the dipstick. even so, if you get the oil really hot, and you are driving in a spirited manner, you might get some oil pukage anyway. You would be surprised at how much the oil level rises when the oil is really hot. That stuff expands a bunch IME.
|
^^^ Good point about situations were oil can come out of the tank vent, Jacob.
|
Thanks Jake and Ronnie.
I got the charcoal canister hose pulled out and wrapped up above the canister. I do run my oil level on the lower half of the dipstick already, so I'm going to get some hoses and couplers/reducers and fab something up and see what happens. |
Got my engine off the stand this past weekend.
Pulled the flywheel and got it resurfaced today. Replaced the rear main seal. It was leaking a little. Ready to install the clutch, then mate up the trans to the motor. If the stars align, I could have my motor in this weekend! Some pics: Before and after for my flywheel RMS installed and cleaned up Front suspension buttoned up and front wheels on for the first time since January! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429766582.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429766603.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429766624.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429766646.jpg |
Quote:
Not sure if you're aware, but there's a pretty sizable cars and coffee taking place this Sunday at Paul Miller Porsche in Parsipanny. Last year it was overflowing with some really nice cars. Weather looks good for this Sunday so it should be equally well attended. I plan to go. Shoot me a PM if you do as well. SUNDAY APRIL 26TH 9:00-1:00pm, ALL NEW PAUL MILLER PORSCHE 3419 Route 46 East, Parsippany. |
Quote:
Opening day for softball season is... Sunday 9am. So I will miss it this time. I work like 5 minutes from Paul Miller. Is it always on Sunday mornings? I would love to go. |
Nice work your doing there. Motor looks spectacular.
|
Hi Jeff, looking good!
Be sure to disconnect the braided oil line from the turbo drip tank and spin the motor on the starter motor until oil pressure builds up and oil starts coming out of the drip tank. (That will happen fastest and will be easier on the starter motor with no spark plugs in the motor) Then you know the turbo bearing housing has plenty of motor oil in it and it's safe to start the motor. |
Quote:
Quote:
Working on installing the clutch now and cant find my clutch alignment tool, so while looking for it, I saw the directions and read them just to make sure I didn't F anything up already! |
Found my clutch alignment tool and the clutch is on (with a little help from Chris C ;) ).
Question - do I lube the front of the throw-out earing where the tabs of the pressure plate hit it? Currently when twisting the TO bearing it will make a metallic scraping sound against the PP tabs, so I want to lube it, but am not sure if there are any reasons why it either doesn't matter or worse, shouldn't be done (grease getting on friction disc, etc). I looked through the clutch instructions here online and in the shop manual and it doesn't clearly say to lube it. FYI - I did lube the needle bearing and the splines in the friction disc and will lube the guide sleeve when installing the trans. Anything else I should lube? (yes, I realize this last question will cause a frenzy of posts by both Ronnie and Paul! :D) Any help is appreciated! thanks http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429989347.jpg |
You don't grease the diaphram spring fingers where they fit into the throw out bearing groove if thats what you mean. They stay dry.
Any grease there would fling out and probably go where you don't want it. |
Quote:
Thanks Jim! |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:25 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website