I went with FFA rods because I got a deal on them and they are great quality. I wanted to rev the motor with confidence. They are quite a bit lighter than stock also.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447246885.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447246912.jpg

I did chamfer the heads to 100mm for using a shallower angle than 30degree to clear the larger inlet valve seat.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447246998.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447247048.jpg

The dizzy is an SC unit, runs in the same direction as the 930 and had same gear. The insides are gutted and a plate mounted to fit a mag trigger from a YB cosworth trigger. I made the rotating trigger pin on the shaft from some scrap steel. It provides the sync to run full sequential ignition and fuel injection.

Some good progress. Motor ready to go back in.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450915893.jpg

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450915987.jpg

looking good, bet that twin scroll spools quick!

Cheers. It does! I have some video on another thread showing that on the old 3.3 small port head set up, it spool 1 bar at around 3000rpm...not bad for a GT35!

Looks great. Will be interesting to see what it does.

Looking at the pic of the headers it looks like you have dual EGO sensor bungs pre- turbo? If your ECU has two wide band channels then you can have the ECU trim fueling to each bank separately. But then you also have to measure manifold back pressure on each bank and build a compensation table since the output is skewed by pressure.

I do, but I currently have one wideband downstream of the turbine in the exhaust. I use this for closed loop WB control of fuel but could go one per bank. I find it works very well as is.

For the clutch I am using a KEP stage 1 clutch with the deep pressure plate to suit the long bell housing and standard release bearing. The engine and box do not want to mate...tried numerous times in the car and have now had to pull the box. Hopefully mating them externally will provide the alignment required but what a ***** it's being. I could not get the release bearing over the guide tube, and mated enough to get the fork fingers engaged over the release bearing. Had much better luck before!

^ this was a PIA on my car, too. FFA rods? Never heard of them. Interesting.

From what I read the rods are made by Fast Foward Automotive (to LN specs?) and sold by LN. They seem to be very decent quality with ARP fasteners and are significantly lighter than stock.

Interesting. LN used to use R&R for their rods.

Definitely easier to mate the box out of the car!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1451446204.jpg

The release fingers are also easy to see:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1451389763.jpg


Some advice if I may, my 930 box shift rod has a lot of play, about 4mm fore / aft in neutral. Is there anything I can do while the box is out? I never planned to R&R the box this year but if I can maybe drop in a new indent pin or selector fork guide etc I would go for that. It works ok but the lever is very sloppy as a result.
Pic shows extent of free play in neutral (to the edge of the tape to housing).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1451389698.jpg

I realise after researching the transmission fore/aft slop that I'll need to get inside the tranny. I will do this later and not with this build. Will throw in shorter final drive and LSD at the same time, but back to the motor......

http://youtu.be/f034qBZdxH0

Well it runs....sounds pretty sweet. The 3.5L set up with big valve heads sounds deep. Twin plug also makes it run a lot nicer, with much leaner AFRs possible while still staying smooth. Timing runs ok dropped back 5 degrees across the board from the single plug map. Left tensioner was a bit rattly on start up, seems to come and go but has generally reduced in noise. Some troubleshooting of the twin plug set up ongoing and waiting on new driveshafts before it goes on the road.

Congrats, that should make some serious power. What happened to the half-shafts, just worn out?

Thanks. I think just extending them to maximum angle in the process of pulling the motor/box cracked up one aged boot. For the cost of shipping boot parts and crimper to Australia, I just put a bit more money in and got 2 new ones from our host as preventative (about 80k on it).

One thing I have confirmed is that an ECU running external dumb igniters can just run another set of plugs by ganging off the existing 6 (or 3 is wasted spark) EcU ign outputs and adding igniters with no ill effect. I'm now running 4x3channel Bosch igniters and it works a treat. I was a little concerned about this but it's all good.

Anyone like to hazard a guess as to how much power I should see once broken in? We run 98RON fuel here in Aus. The wastegates run a 10psi spring with electronic control. I plan on mapping the ECU to be able to scope up to 18psi (I have a potentiometer in the car). Depending on torque output I also have the option of dropping boost a bit midrange to save the clutch.


I am hoping for 600+hp at the crank....I think the intercooler should be able handle it looking at its size.

The previous owner of the intercooler took the IC from a wrecked 930 that made a claimed 585 rwhp at 1.2bar boost (Protomotive and also had with a Garret GT35R turbo installed but probably a smaller single scroll housing than mine).


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1452477924.jpg

Well it's pretty much run in now and I have been slowly mapping and adjusting the ECU with the brilliant drive to tune feature of the PE3. Latest runs show around 75% duty cycle out of my 750cc injectors at a steady 12.0:1 AFR at 7000rpm at 16psi. This equates to approximately 600 engine bhp based on most injector power calculators as a rough idea. Will have to get it on dyno.

One thing for sure it feels ferociously fast between 4-7000rpm with no let up into the limiter at 7100rpm. The way the speed piles up with the 4 speed is 'disturbing'. I have been in some quick cars and this thing is up there with them. It's a bit slower to spool with the big head/big valve/964 cam set up. 6psi comes at 3000psi, 1 bar at around 3600. Used to do 1 bar at 3000 but the top end is now simply amazing. I will end up setting it up at 20psi which should see my injectors around 80%. Very impressed with this motor!

Nice! A drop to .82 A/R would help spool and should not hurt top end much. How often will you spin it to 7K? What is the ID of the header primaries?

Looking good!
Those specific headers have 39mm ID primaries.

would love to see your timing map!:D Philip