AN8 aluline routing in tunnel
 

Hesus its tight in there!

Does the brake cable or shifter opening have a view to the lines or are they closed under those openings? I think I have it between the two openings at this time and its really hard to go any further. Engine in does not help either and car being only 20 inch up : ( not to mention I'm working alone.

This would impy it open but can anyone conform?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yc...=w1280-h800-no

AN8 is 1/2". That is huge to thread through the tunnel. Why not AN6 (3/8")?

It gets even more crowded in there when the shifter rod is in place.
Some guys run new larger diameter stainless steel or kevlar braided EFI fuel lines through the rocker panels. They are more vulnerable there if a bad collision happens to the side of the car but there's more room, fewer things in the way, and it's easier to do.
If the car was ever hit in the side hard enough to rupture a good quality stainless steel braided fuel line routed through the rocker panel the chassis would probably be totaled anyway.

Shifter/rod is there too. AN8 has room for future upgrades if need be plus E85 needs 30% more anyway. If this will just not work then I may consider heater passages too but they are so curvy on ends it might need teflon lines. I will switch to gasheater later so no need for heater passages anymore.

I ran a AN8 aluminum hardline in the tunnel - it is a *****!!!!. But in your case - 18" off the ground and the motor still in it - almost impossible.

I ran the line long and the leading edge to a point - then wrapped it with tape. The other end I bend the tube at 90º to act as a control so that I could rotate the tapered end to move up, down and around anything in the way. Then once thru - I pushed the line as far as I could - to give me room to cut the tapered end off, insert the threaded nut and flare the end. Then I pulled it back and did the other end.

I also did this by my self - but mine was on a lift and the motor/trans was out. I took me about 8 hours of trial and error to get a workable process going - then just a huge amount of tries to get it thru. If I did it again - I would run the 3/8" line. I did 1/2" because of my engine mods to the 930 motor and all fuel lines were changed to 1/2" stainless steel braided hose. Also the inlets and outlets to the fuel tank were changed to 1/2"

Good luck - it isn't easy

I bought -8 aluminum, but after spending a little time examining the tunnel I ended up going with PTFE.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/587211-935-suspension-moton-coilovers-street-3.html#post6155666

The beauty of PTFE is it has the ID of -8 and the OD of a typical -6 braided line, so it's a little easier to thread through the tunnel.

If you go farther in my thread, you'll see I changed out the original PTFE for a conductive sheathed product. Pretty much bullet proof for any fuel. Not cheap, but you only do it once.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/587211-935-suspension-moton-coilovers-street-4.html#post7857057

Either way you go, jack up the transmission and pull the mount crossmember to give yourself some working room.

Thanks guys. So in this pic from your thread you cant see the one in stock routing

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311555982.jpg

My line is going in the most driver side hole.

Correct

One line thru the factory 'conduit', the other line running right below the factory conduit, attached with rubber lined clamps every so often.....and some zip ties..;)

And while you're in there, take a look at the throttle rod guide bushings. Just left of the shifter cup in the pic. Mine were mostly gone, because it looks like the factory put petroleum grease on them which may have caused them to deteriorate. I put new ones in with a silicone based grease.

I should of mentioned, that in addition to the shifter rod Jim pointed out, the throttle rod is in there on the left side along with the wiring harness going down right conduit, it's tight. The tricky part was getting around the mess of tubes at the left rear of the tunnel. Once by that, it wasn't so bad.

I tied pull wires on the original lines when I pulled them out, then used those to pulled one of the lines thru. Ran another wire where it worked thru the tube mess and below the conduit to pull the other line. Did it all by myself with the engine in the car.

I removed my pull wire as it did not seem to guide the alutube at all.

One more question. Are the two stock fuel line routes equal in size? I have a boost line for pull use in return side so that could help if some tape would hold them together tight enough for pulling through with some bends in the aluline.

Yep, probably wouldn't work well with rigid tubing, the PTFE was hard enough.


Both stock lines are the same size, and route through the left conduit, side-by-side. Might be more clear if you get a small mirror and flashlight, pull off the rear inspection cover, and poke around in there. It's a maze in the rear portion of the tunnel, not so bad in the middle and front.

Yes they fit the same space. I took the boost line out and managed to get the aluline all the way to the front but it slipped the last counduit and went next to shiftrod so I pulled it back and it got stuck again where the shift rod is. I might have to remove the shift rod attachment to get some room to guide the aluline. I like how you used your smuglers box for the rear pump and I might do the same trick as it helps the routing (and even weight distribution).

The key with aluline is to rotate it whenever it gets stuck. It gets a bit bendy manouvering it beside the trans so rotating it helps to get past notches or conduits

Also, verify your aluminum tubing is anodized or has some protective finish on it, not raw unfinished aluminum.
In the case of "alcohol-enriched" fuels, aka ethanol blends, the concern is it being hygroscopic and attracting moisture, which in turn could lead to aluminum corrosion internally.

Its anodized.

I bet only outside as it's technically difficult to anodize inside (Problem Faraday cage)

Check before

The item info clearly says also inside anodized.

Good for you! Concerning routing through the tunnel, you'll find some pics of my SS Teflon routing at my another rust combat thread