Disaster..

[Jeff NJ]

Originally Posted by 93097004xx

I’ve never replaced that striping because I was always under the impression that there simply was no good reproduction seals available.. at least as far as fitment is concerned.


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Here is the part number for what I believe to be the Porsche original door seal.

91153109502

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=91153109502

Not sure why the original Porsche part wouldn't be what you want here.

Certainly double check to make sure that fits your specific car and ask for advice about fitment/install issues from anyone that has replaced it already.

[93097004xx]

Originally Posted by Jeff NJ

Here is the part number for what I believe to be the Porsche original door seal.



91153109502



https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=91153109502



Not sure why the original Porsche part wouldn't be what you want here.



Certainly double check to make sure that fits your specific car and ask for advice about fitment/install issues from anyone that has replaced it already.

Thanks!


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[CASair]

disaster.. maybe call your insurance and have them total it?

[93097004xx]

Originally Posted by CASair

disaster.. maybe call your insurance and have them total it?

Lol They just voluntarily raised my value to $125,000.


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[patina]

Take a ziz wheel and cut a channel into the head of the bold turning it into an oversized flat head...

[1979-930]

Fly Rawknee out for the weekend. I hear he's good with blowtorches Or something like that.

[1974carrera]

This thought won't help get that bad fastener out, but it might help on the installation of the new fasteners...I think that fastener requires a triple-square and not a 12-point. I could be wrong about this as it's been quite a few years ago that I replaced the strikers on my '74. Would be a good idea to check though.

[infraredcalvin]

Originally Posted by pete3799

Another option is weld a nut on the end of the bolt.

This, once you do it you’ll wonder how you ever dealt with a broken stiud, stripped head any other way.

Protect paint and interior with something NON FLAMABLE, quickly weld a nut to the stripped head, then use an impact gun to get the nut screw off. The heat from the weld will break the bond pretty easily.

[93097004xx]

Took 20 minuets.

Had to drill it out then pliers.

Now I have to wait for the new strikers to come.

I’m sure I will need some help I’ll come back to this thread for help as I’m sure some of you have done this before.








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[Rawknees'Turbo]

Nice job, Tony!

Originally Posted by 1979-930

Fly Rawknee out for the weekend. I hear he's good with blowtorches Or something like that.

There would be the risk of sucking the car inside out to consider!

[93097004xx]

Might be a really dumb question but is this hard on the door hinges to leave the doors open like this?

I took the old strikers out and obviously there is no way to latch the doors at this point.

[93097004xx]

Should I oil the threads to prevent them from corroding?


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[Alan L]

Put some copperkote/anti seize on them. Next time will be a doddle and the next owner will personally write to you thanking you. I use it on any bolts that I am not likely to see for a long time again on the chassis etc.
Alan

[Mocker]

^What Alan said, plus anti-seize is a good idea whenever you've got the possibility of dissimilar metals being fastened, including the fastener.

[stevie 77 930]

Nice job getting the screw out !

The replacement screw will already have lock tight on it. Be sure to use the proper star tool and not just a hex.

[Tippy]

No mechanic over tightened them, they are simply corroded IMO.

The way I would have approached is whacking with a ball peen hammer straight to the heads or with a punch if you are too worried of damage.

I assure you, they would have come out easily after that. Have to break free the corrosion.

[93097004xx]

So new strikers installed and about 20 hours of work now done cleaning wet sanding and waxing everything you see when the door is open..

You can see in the upper section of the last picture what I started with as I have yet to get to this area.

Work work..


























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[stevie 77 930]

excellent results , glad it all worked out !

[JFairman]

Originally Posted by 93097004xx

Might be a really dumb question but is this hard on the door hinges to leave the doors open like this?

It wouldn't hurt the hinges.
If you replace the rubber door gaskets you can make them hold their original thickness and shape or keep them from becoming squished by leaving the door latched only part way.
What I mean is when you close the doors the latching mechanism goes through two steps.
The first step will keep the doors semi closed but they are not closed and latched all the way to the point the doors sheet metal is flush with the sheet metal around the door.
Anotherwords the doors will be semi latched and at the door handle end the door will still be around 3/8" to 1/2" away from being completely closed and latched.

People with collector cars in an air conditioned museum will do this so the rubber door gasket doesn't sit fully compressed all the time. That will keep the door gasket looking new and working as good as it can.

I'm surprised the door striker plates were as expensive as you said. I guess they'll just keep charging more for them.
You could send your old ones to a place that replates them with yellow zinc. Some people call it gold cadmium plating too. That would make them look nice and should increase their resale value more than the cost of having them plated.

[93097004xx]

Originally Posted by stevie 77 930

excellent results , glad it all worked out !

Thanks I have to put a shameless plug in for griots garage their products are the best and by far. My detailing and reconditioning would not have near the results if not for their products.

Zymol waxes too in particularly their estate collection is leagues above anything unless you’re comparing to it waxes that are a $1000 or more.