1979 SC Chewed a Valve - Total Rebuild

[OsoMoore]

Couldn't get a ball bearing nor the fitting off the EGR hard pipe without cutting it.
For now, I've put a small plate across the end of the EGR pipe, blocking the hole. So it is a dead end. It is a pain to thread it below around the exhaust/heat exchangers, but at least it isn't up in the airbox region.

[OsoMoore]

Engine is in! Spent longer than I'd like figuring out the EGR bracket. Forgot to put that little rubber clip on the other bracket, but I can reach it now so I can fix it.

Darkness has fallen, mount bolts are torqued. Time for dinner. Might hook stuff up after dinner, but not going to do a startup until I get some sleep and can re-check stuff in the morning.

[rwest]

Nice job!

Good idea to triple check everything after you stepped away and have a clear head.

I’m prepping to drop my engine soon, but not to tear it apart, just install a cam sensor- much less puckering!

[OsoMoore]

Yeah, no sense is rushing or working while tired.
After dinner I just cleaned up, put away tools, arranged parts for tomorrow.

Then had something mixed with apple cider.

[brighton911]

Wise decision to step back and start with a clear head. I go over a job while sleeping (weird I know) and more than once, have come up with an item that needs a re-check and/or confirmation. Good luck !

[OsoMoore]

Going crazy here - which of my two oil lines goes top, and which goes bottom?

The braided one seems to align for the bottom but won't fit on it. The rubber one aligns for both.

I'm worried the braided one should be top, but I didn't adjust the hose clamp on the back correct and the twist is wrong.

[OsoMoore]

With enough encouragement the braided hose was flexible.

I also had to pull an octopus to tighten some brackets in the back.

Now I'm staring at the bottom trying to figure out where the hard oil line connects. This all seems so clear coming off 3 months ago.

[Flat6pac]

The hose coming off the neck is supposed to go to the back of the air intake crossover from your airflow sensor to your to your throttle body then that hose is supposed to have a reducer in it. That’s why when you take off the cap it stumbles because you’re getting false air After the airflow sensor. The other one off the side of the tank goes to the breather hose in the triangle.
Bruce

[Flat6pac]

The only thing under the car should be the scavenged line with his connector and the S hose, which speaks for itself.
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Wrestling with starter wiring: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1186559-getting-my-starter-back-wired-hot-start-relay-edition.html#post12568382

Also I hate hate hate heat exchangers, will tell more later.

[Flat6pac]

The blue stripe goes on the bottom tag.
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Unfortunately... small fuel leak.

Cranking to get oil pressure worked well (w/ spark and fuel off). Oil light would go off nice and properly. No leaks seen.

However after only 3 or 4 seconds of cranking I had gasoline coming down the right back oil pan. Somewhere on the back of the CIS, can't see where behind the airbox.

So I'm getting ready for a partial drop to locate and fix. Will need to brush up on what has to come off and what can stay on.

[OsoMoore]

Hmmm, is the partial drop going to cost me 9 quarts of oil? Feeling likely.

[OsoMoore]

Caught all the oil (less than I put it) in the original bottles. Looks clean and no flecks, was only used for 2 minutes of starter cranking (no ignition). Reuse for the 2-minute break-in?

Also detached everything for the re-drop tomorrow. I think I should be able to partial-drop and get plenty of CIS access. I wonder if I can put the two fuel lines back on, short the fuel pump relay, and test the fuel pressure with the engine partially dropped.

[OsoMoore]

While I wait for the morning to re-drop...

I discovered an unfortunate surprise that cost me more than 2 hours today.
Section 10 in the red rebuild book (accessories, exhaust, and fuel injection) is the last rebuild section. Early in the chapter it tells you to put on the oil line adaptor. I had that taken care of.

Then it goes on to other things, including exhaust. It never tells you to put on the bottom hardline for the oil. And I didn't. I didn't realize my error until I was under the car, engine bolted in, ready to connect oil lines.

You'd think it would be quick to pop off that heat exchanger and fasten the oil line. But remember my exchangers have those awful long studs. And I'm now upside down, not at an engine mount.
And my heat exchangers are kind of old and ratty. So I'm balancing the heat exchanger with a hand and elbow, trying to keep the gaskets from sliding off, while I raise it into position. I think it took me 5 tries.

After wrestling with some bolts... I then had a barrel nut drop inside of the exchanger through a rusty crack in its through-hole. (Not an exhaust crack, so no fume issues).

Yep - the thing was 5/6 bolted back on, and a barrel nut fell into it's insides. I tried to fish it out, finally going to get my borescope and putting a little bend in my magnetic wand. I was able to find the rascal, fish it out, and get it back together.

All told, that little adventure cost me a lot of time. So to anyone rebuilding your engine - put on the hard oil line before the exhaust!

[PeteKz]

I have used the high-temp red RTV to stick the exhaust gaskets to the exhaust ports, then put on the HE’s.

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

I have used the high-temp red RTV to stick the exhaust gaskets to the exhaust ports, then put on the HE’s.

That would have saved me a lot of pain and suffering. I suppose the same orange loctite or dirko used on engine seals would have worked?

I'm wondering - can I hook up the two fuel lines to the partially-dropped engine. Leave engine harness/CDI wires disconnected. Then start the engine and turn to the 'run' position.
Will I then get fuel pressure, so I can check for any more leaks? Or does something in the system refuse to run the fuel pump without the engine wiring harness connected?

[OsoMoore]

Found I'd left off the fuel hookup on the back of the fuel distributor.
I think I'm going to dig up one of those "hook everything up" lists for engine re-insertion.

[Henry Schmidt]

One thought: If your heat exchangers is cranked or rusted though you stand a great chance of steaming up the inside of your car if you drive through a puddle. You also take the risk of smoke inhalation if your heat exchanger gets oil in it from a valve cover leak or leaks from above.

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

One thought: If your heat exchangers is cranked or rusted though you stand a great chance of steaming up the inside of your car if you drive through a puddle. You also take the risk of smoke inhalation if your heat exchanger gets oil in it from a valve cover leak or leaks from above.

Yeah, the part for engine exhaust is fine, but there is a hole inside the through-bolt hole on one of the exchangers. I haven't had issues so far except not-great heat (already blower-delete setup). New exchangers are on the wish-list.

Got everything rigged, no leaks, but no start. The facts:
1) Oil pressure light goes off right away. No oil leaks.
2) Fuel pressure seems fine, did a quick spray in a bottle by lifting air plate.
3) Spark checked by removing a spark wire and putting on spare plug grounded. Nice bright blue.
4) Had one small backfire after about 25 seconds of turning over. No catching or attempts to catch - other than that no ignition sound at all.

I checked my distributor - with engine at TDC the distributor arm was aligned with the notch on the distributor case. Is it possible I'm one rotation off?

I can put all the injectors in my baby bottles (I have a setup for this) and check them all. But I'm pretty sure fuel isn't the issue.

I would have thought I'd get some variety of ignition, even with off-tempo spark, seeing as I had fuel. If the distributor adjustment isn't the issue, what should I check next?