Break in

[gerry100]

I'll be getting my '86 3.2 back from the shop this week after a Top end, rings, valves, guides and what started it all - head studs.

Bottom end and existing clutch checked out fine. 915 will be rebuilt also.

My mechanic says that his break in reciommendations are " drive it, come back after a thousand miles for an oil change and check of valve adjustment.

Car is a pleasure driver plus as much track time as I can get in ( 5-6 days/year).

I'll discuss breakin in more when I pick up the car... any inputs from the board before I do?

Thanks

[Andras]

Oil is cheap (compared to rebuilding your engine again). And if you use dino oil, it is only $1.50/quart.

Follow the advice in Wayne's book (change oil at 50 miles, then 100-150 miles, then at 500 miles, and once more at 1,000. Then every 3,000 miles thereafter).

Is this overkill? Probably, but once again, oil is cheap.

[RoninLB]

I used 30w non-detergent for break-in

[Andras Nagy]

Hi Ronin,

I've been using Rotella T non-synthetic, since I've come to the conlcusion after research that a non-synthetic is the best for breaking in. Once broken in, there is also no real reason to use synthetic in our SC's if you change the oil every 3,000 miles.

Whenever I empty the oil at 3,000, I'm never amazed how dark and "used" the oil looks

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Andras Nagy
a non-synthetic is the best for breaking in.

greetings..
there is another issue with using non-detergent for break-in.. I could find the hard info if necessary, but it has something to do with the detergent additive package for sure.

[jpnovak]

I like this method.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by jpnovak
I like this method.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

yep..
my break-in was before I had a computer.. and I had the same think.. He modified it a little for conditions. my rings are tighter than a water-tite crab's ass

[jpnovak]

That's pretty tight!

[Wayne 962]

The MotoTune guy is on the ball, but his site doesn't emphasize one thing enough - MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS FULLY WARMED UP (FULLY!) BEFORE YOU RUN IT ANYWHERE!

Hmm, just took another look at the site - he recently added a few comments that say "WARM UP THE ENGINE" in red...

-Wayne

[Tim Hancock]

My 79 SC got new rod brgs, rings, valve guides, rockers and reground cams. I did Waynes suggested 20 minutes at 2k rpm, then changed oil expecting to find lots of glitter. I could not see any glitter to speak of.
I am now at about 1000 miles and I will soon change the oil again when I retorque the heads and adjust the valves. I basically followed Waynes rpm/loading/mileage advise but after seeing no metal, I saw no reason to change my oil as often as he advises (I know, I know, oil is cheap but
with no metal initially why bother until 1000 miles).

I have used approximately 1/2 qt of oil in this first 1000 miles and the car does not smoke at all even though this was an Alusil re-ring job (cylinders measured in the middle of the allowable tolerance).