cam choice
 

GE-80 or an equal from John.Check with Neil Harvey for his newly designed profiles with less harmonics.Fred

The rods were balanced a second time. We like them a little closer than my rod guy did them. It's not a coating, the rods were shot-peened with an experimental medium.

Those engine specs sound pretty racy. For racing application, John at DC cams ground us a DC90 that offers a nice compromised between the DC100 and DC 80.
I don't remember the specs off-hand but when I get back to the shop I'll try to find it.

Is this a motor that could realistically be built for less than 40K?
It looks like a masterpiece!

Hello everybody!
could you give me advise please, I have 911s 1976 with engine #6561086, how do you think is it good idea to put turbine there or not?
my concern that engine could be easy overheated....
thank you

Vin
The mag case 2.7s were in some ways the weakest Porsche motors until the first 996 cases came along. More horsepower means more heat. Porsche did not turbocharge its street motors until it switched to an aluminum case. You could install inserts for the head studs, use ARP or Raceware head studs, and use a piston which would reduce the compression ratio to something which would work. Maybe even run the 930 turbo cam? You can increase the oil cooling capacity pretty easily by adding a good, center of the front valance, cooler.
A lot of work for what - to race Subarus away from stop lights?

Hey Walt, so if I will not install turbo, what is better way to reduce the heat? or any suggestion how to modify this engine to avoid the weakest (just for run and enjoy it).
thank you

Hey Walt! thank you for reply. Turbine is just an option and now I'm thinking do not to do it and could you recommend how to modify this engine to reduce the heat or make it less weak as it is..
thank you

If that is a California engine (as it looks like on the numbers) make sure it doesen't have thermal reactors exhaust. Get some SSI heat exchangers och similar, get a 11-blade fan if you have the 5-bladed. Add a Carrera 3.2 oil cooler in front fender with an electric fan.
Then you have some decent cooling.

probably should just start your own thread for that subject, as it has nothing todo with the 2.8 stroker with 66mil crank on an early turbo or 3.0 carrera case

Stijn - I should have just said what you did, and not taken the bait.

If VINN just uses the search feature for this forum, with terms like 2.7 and maybe reliability or rebuild or improvement, he will find lots of good stuff on how to make the 2.7 live longer.

Another approach would be to purchase the 911 engine rebuild book from our host Pelican - it goes into all this in detail.

Thank you for advise!
will work on it

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming...

Is this a motor that could realistically be built for less than 40K?

back when the thread was new, yes
now? not unless you have the parts from back when the thread was new (or have your own machine shop and do all the work for heads, parts TB's) and already have the MFI pump for it

I guess the operative question is which motor?
Can you build a SS 2.8 liter engine for under $40K.
Sure. There would be some questions about options. Watching your pennies gets you close.
Starting with a 3.0 core and using a custom crank it could be done.
We could get you close to a long block for $ 32K
Then add ancillaries.
Carbs
Distributor
exhaust
Alter/fan, tin and shroud.
Could you add parts that make this project explode? absolutely.
MFI
Ti rods
Custom exhaust
Digital distributor
Hi butterfly or slides
This project could get close to/over $ 80K

I just remembered a 2.8 SS we built a few years back that offered a cool build on a budget.
We started with a matching numbers, aluminum 2.0 case. Used a 2.2S crank, 2.2 rods and a custom set of Ps&Cs that were made just for this project.
The case was of course bore for the cylinders and it was close.
Using that option, there is some cost savings. Of course the key to this project is sourcing the 2.0 aluminum case.

This was a great little street motor and looks period correct for a SWB 911.

Well that 32 long block + ancilleries

them 2plug dizzie setups don't come cheap
by the time you get the right carbs plug wires alternator, shroud and appropriate exhaust..
I would reckon that's 40K easy

I have been wanting to kick off a build for my stock engined ‘71T. I have an extra 7R case and recently was looking at a “vintage” motor in a car built by Chuck Stoddard (?). Car was built in circa ‘74 I think. It now runs 46mm carbs w ~ 275hp. So, ... going from my 930 w 360RWHP to my 71 narrow body I need something more than a built 2.2.

Question is can I built a 2.8 on the 7R case? It appears the car I was looking at only yesterday hD in fact had this combo.

Or do I need a 3.0? I don’t want to pay the price of a turbo case as they are too rare these days.

Is their an advantage in heads, i e stud spacing between alternatives? Do I need a new counterweighted crank? I could just sell the stock 2.2T instead of using its parts?

This will be a street car. I want to keep it simple. Is the best route just to go w the 7R and a 2.6SS? I want the car the breath through reasonable heads and ... horsepower target is 250+ .... streetable / drivable on runs like the Targa Cali etc. BTW the car later will be shipped to Scotland where I am getting transferred. I will have limited access to excellent mechanics.

No you cant
you need a aluminium case to handle the power

And there will be nothing simple about it if you want 250 horses out of an aircooled 2.6 that's 96 bhp/ liter..
You'de have to get an aircooled engine built that revs the nuts off your wallet.

Get Boxster or Cayman instead if you want a reasonable 250 horses for the street

I wouldn’t expect any less from Henry
His workmanship is the best!

The answer is yes. You can do all manner of engines given a little ingenuity.
The challenge is how to keep it alive.
As a general rule, we shoot for 240hp or less with mag case engines.
We have a 95mm piston and cylinder combination that will fit a 7R case.
66x95 equals the SS 2.8.
The 2.2T heads can be ported to flow enough air to produce the target 240hp.
A counter weighted crank would be preferable but the non-counter weighted crank will work.
Upgrade the oil pump, shuffle pin the case, port the heads and use a quality head stud (in combination with CaseSavers) that will provide improved cylinder and head stability and you should be good. Twin plugging is not necessary but is a cool up-grade allowing for increased compression.
The bigger challenge might be cam selection. Mod S would be a great choice but will limit high RPM hp. DC 60 or 62 would give you the higher RPM but you sacrifice lower end performance.
40mm carbs will work but 46 would produce better throttle response.
1 5/8" headers and a free flow/sport muffler and you have what should be a really nice, fun to drive early engine.
All that said, of course an aluminum case starting point will produce a more reliable platform.