End of week update...
 

Cam's are timed, new tensioners are in, chain housing covers are on, intake & exhaust covers are on, distributor is in, engine mount & cross bar installed, heat exchangers installed, and finally to rap up today's work the new exhaust was bolted on. Man I'm tired!! :eek:

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Hey, we are running the exact same exhuast! Nice!

Great to see the progress. I am curious to see if your muffler comes in contact with the underside of your bumper. Mine is touching ever so sligthly - going to have it bent down a tad by a local blacksmith.

Make sure that you get air through the SSIs. Initially I left my old fan plates on - both sides were blocked off b/c I used to have headers. No air was being sent through the SSIs (all air was being pushed over the top of the engine cylinders) and my engine temps were nearly 30 degrees higher than they should have been. After finishing my heater backdate, temps dropped significantly.

Some may argue that what I say is not true. But getting air over the exhaust side is terribly important - otherwise the SSIs act as a heat sink. And since the bottom of the engine is hotter anyway, you really want air moving through this area.

"After finishing my heater backdate, temps dropped significantly".

Do I need to back date my heater system as well? I just purchased and installed new flapper boxes for my current configuration... :confused:

NICE WORK!!
Looks great!

The heater boxes are the same no mater what set up you have.

To backdate, you install two fan outlets on the sides of your engine fan - one for the left and one for the right. Hoses are connected to the outlets and to the open side of the SSIs at the back of the car (the hoses run from the outlets through the engine tin to the SSIs). The backdate eliminates the heater fan blower - it really cleans up the engine and gives you more real estate to work on the engine.

You DO NOT have to backdate. Either way you do it you will still be sending air from your engine fan through the SSIs and up towards your heater boxes. Even if your heater boxes are closed, air is still moving through the SSIs which helps cool the bottom side of the engine.

Thanks Otto! :D

Craig, now I understand... I'm gonna check that out.

Thanks!

sabeo,

Make sure you check the tolerance between your fan and housing. By powder coating them you add material on the inside of the housing and on the tips of the fan blades; powder is thick.
Cheers,
jp

Ps. there's nothing better looking than a fresh rebuild!! Very nice..

Jp, a few of my parts I had powder coated I didn't end up using... Like, the valve covers and the fan blade. I am still going to use the powder coated fan housing. I had extra valve covers and a newer fan blade I managed to get off of eBay for cheap. I was not happy with the powder coating in the first place, the place I took my parts to was a pain to do business with and was expensive. They ended up breaking one of the fan blades and did not want to compensate me for it... Any how, I like how this set up is turning out.

Sabeo,

Are you using the thin flange SSIs or the thick flange?

I think I had a revelation regarding my muffler and bumper clearance. Remember how I said that my muffler touches my bumper? Well, I have the thin flange SSIs. If I was using the thick flange SSIs, the muffler would certainly clear the bumper. The thicker flanges would give greater distance between the SSIs and the heads ... which, in turn, would push the muffer down ever so slightly since the muffler is connected to the SSIs.

To my knowledge, nobody had mentioned this. It seems to be a matter of preference as to whether or not you use thin or thick flange SSIs. Most people buy the SSIs based on the length of the exhuast studs - if yours are short, you get the thin flange ... if long, you get the thick flange. In my case, the exhuast studs were a mix and match - the PO had headers on there and a Bursch exhaust. I installed all new exhaust studs (shorter ones) b/c I had already purchased the thin flange SSIs.

If I could do it all over again, I would absolutely have gone with the thick flange.

Anyhow, hope this helps ... and I hope you have thick flanges!

Craig, in that regard I made the right choice. The exhaust bolts that I have are long; the flanges on the SSI's are thick. I started to tackle the CIS last night. I didn't get far because I had to sand the inside of the fan housing to remove some of the powder coating. The fan blade had difficulty spinning freely. I didn’t realize how thick the layer was, JP was right. Powder coating looks great, but it's not worth the trouble.

Looks great, and is inspiring! Can't wait to see it back in the Targa!

Thank You, I can hardly wait my self. This last week has been busy for me at work so I couldn't really work on the engine. It should be in the Targa soon! SmileWavy

New Alternator
 

I'm not sure about the wiring on this new Valeo alternator. Does this look right? My old S.E.V Marchal alternator had to large cracks in the housing! It was perfectly fine when I took it out 7 months ago :eek:

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SmileWavy

Here is the wiring orientation on my 1987 (Valeo)

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Mark thanks for pic. I'm Following the diagram right out of the Bentley manual. It seems to help but I'm still not sure. I know that the Valeo has the VR built in as opposed to the old Marchal, and that I have to remove the external VR from the engine bay…

I think that you have the case ground in the wrong location. I believe that it should be on the same terminal as the 3 brown wires. I have lots of pics at home - will post for you if you need.

Also, I have my alternator turned upside down - voltage regulator towards the case. I think it is less stressful on the wires this way b/c that blue wire is more flexible and seems to have greater reach whereas the others are more stiff and brittle making them harder to manipulate. When you put the air guide on the back of the fan housing you will see what I mean b/c the wires have to run through the hole in the air guide.

Regarding your SSIs ... you may find that you have to cut them near the clutch assembly. The big arm (looks like a "C" and can't remember the name) may interfere with the SSIs. It is funny b/c I noticed a picture in the 101 projects book (I think it is the clutch adjustment section) where the SSIs had been cut too.

Craig, I got the correct wiring set up from the 911 technical BB. The black wire was throwing me off, and had attached the brown wire in the wrong spot. Well I hope I don't have to do any modifications to the SSI's. I'll take a look in the 101 project book when I get home…

Finally!
 

Well it's finally finished! I was done installing the fuel injectors and the CIS around 3am. I also attached the hoses even though I'll probably have to remove a couple to get the engine in the bay. Over all I'm very happy with the end result. I had a few hang up's here and there but I guess that's expected the first time doing something like this. I still have to attach the clutch & transmission, then into the engine bay it goes. A big thank you for every ones help and support. I have acquired a little more knowledge and understanding of how this modern marvel works, it has been and continues to be a great learning experience and hopefully in turn this thread provides useful information and insight to the next novice re-builder...

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Awesome! Well done!

Looks fantastic ... are you going to crank it up this weekend?

A rebuilt engine is a thing of beauty!!!

jp

THANKS!! Yep I'm going to try to fire it up. I'm going to try to take video footage as well. I have a few friends stopping by my place tomorrow to give me a hand taking the engine off the stand. Then if all goes according to plan, by Wednesday night i should have it back in the car. I gotta buy oil :eek: What did you use?

I have been using Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20/50 for a couple of years now. Stuck with it after the rebuild too.

The some local shops use it, a lot of people on the forum use it, and it is readily available.

I did get some of the GM EOS stuff just for the first crank. The bottle says not to use as an oil additive but it seems to be a common practice. Pricey though!

Looks *really* good! Nice job. What did you do with the fan shroud-repaint?

I do think that your injector sleeves aren't inserted deeply enough, however...I know it's hard to press those things in there but they should be flush with the intake runner.

+1 Sleeves need to go way down. There is a lip on the intake runner below which the sleeve will fit - the lip is used to stake the sleeves in place. I didn't stake mine though ;)

Thanks! I'm glad you guy's pointed that out, I was curious about the injector sleeves. They are a pain to get in! :o

The fan shroud I found on ebay for a deal, my shroud was busted up. It actually belongs to a 84 Carrera and was black. I painted it guards red. I hope the paint doesn't bubble and flake off due to the heat. I guess I gotta keep my fingers crossed.

I got the engine off the stand without any incidents. I made the mistake of filling up the tank before dropping the engine back in March. I used Shell V Power, but I think I'm going to pump the gas out and put fresh gas in. I heard gas has about a 6 month self life. It may be ok, but I don't want to chance it...SmileWavy

To repaint my fan shroud, I have used krylon plastic paint spray can, and so far so good (~ 2,000 miles on the rebuild now).

Aurel

I used a can I purchased from paintscratch.com that was just lying around, it's super high quality but I'm not sure how it will hold up against high temperatures. If it does turn into a mess then I will use a can of Krylon the next time I drop the engine. Krylon paint is good stuff!!

Well done! :)

I just want to give you a tip on oil:
For the initial start, and following short runs, you´ll have to replace the oil many times. (follow wayne´s instructions) That´s why I went with a cheaper 10W40 mineral oil for these first two oil changes. It is better to use a thinner oil like this for the first starts, because you need a good flow when the engine is cold. (critical minutes)
But now I´m running on a slightly more expensive 20W50 mineral oil for classic engines, which helped the oil pressure when warm. (The brand is Statoil, but others will be fine)
Next year when the engine is completely run in, I´ll switch to shell Racing 10W60.


Oh, and stock up on oil filters..! I forgot that, and had to wait two agonizing days...;)

Good luck to ya!

Thanks Otto! I actually stocked up on the cheaper oil as well as the good stuff, so I should be all good... Thanks for the tip! :cool:

Update
 

here are a few pictures of the final stages. I got the engine back in, I have to attached the clutch assembly, heater hoses, drive shafts and make all the engine attachments in the engine bay. Hopefully if all goes well, I will be able to start engine tonight! :eek:

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DUDE! LOOKING GOOD!

I wanted to tell you that I failed to connect my SSI outlet to the heater box on the starter side (actually, my old one was destroyed so I just ripped it out and didn't have an extra hose). Anyhow, my starter wires got fried b/c they either rested on the top of the SSI or the heat coming off of them was enough to catch them on fire. Probably came in contact with the SSI. Anyhow, don't make that mistake! Yours look like they are ok from you pics - mine had a lot of slack.

When are you going to crank it?

I'll make sure to double check the starter cables. I installed a new clutch cable last night, it took me awhile to attach and readjust the cable. I was having difficulty releasing the pin bracket from the cable clevis. I finally manage to do it without breaking any thing. I am able to depress the clutch pedal down to the floor activating the clutch but it's so much stiffer than before. I guess it could be from all the new clutch parts. Can you snap a picture of your oil line's attached to your thermostat to the engine and oil tank? SmileWavy

The best pic that I have available right now is on this page: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=399544&page=12

Fire it up!
 

well guy's i was able to start the engine last night, it fired right up. the green oil light went out after 30 sec. i gave it about 3-4 15 sec. cranks to make sure the oil pressure was building up correctly. everything was going smoothly, installed the fuel relay and wiring harness to the CD box. I turn the engine over and gave it some gas, by the 3rd attempt the engine roared to life. After about a minute i had a huge oil leak! My Dad and I mistakenly put a washer that was too big on the right side tensioner oil line. So, we shut the engine off and quickly corrected the problem and re-started the engine and ran it for 20 Min. Man I tell you, if I hadn't quit smoking I would of gone through a whole pack during that time! :eek:

here is a link to my start up, please tell me what you guy's think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpduREQ4T5Y

I still gotta adjust the fuel mixture, i believe it's way to rich. i set the timing and was able to get the engine to idle at 900 +/-50 but noticed that my throtle adjustment screw is completely closed. Also after letting the car cool for a bit and then restarting it, it seemed like it wanted to die out. i gave it a few rev's and heard a few pop's, any thought's? :confused:

Congrats!

You say you gave it a few revs. So you gave it throttle and the engine responded? Or did you give it throttle and you got some popping?

My guess would be that the timing is retarded or the mixture is too lean - that is where I would start.

I was messing with mine last Saturday. Before I put it away for the night I had set the timing to TDC b/c I was doing some testing. It was running great after the adjustment but when I tried to start it the next morning my RPMs would only go to 200, I couldn't give it throttle, and the LM-1 was reading 18 AFR which is way lean. As soon as I set the timing back to 5 (+-2) it came back to life.

Gave it a few rev's and got some popping... I'm gonna work on the mixture tonight.

Congratulations!
Nice feeling, is it not?

I must say, however, that I thought I could hear a bit much valve ticking noise here, but it might just be the video (audio) quality.
The popping, as you call it... -Do you mean backfire, or pops in the exhaust? -Or something else..?

Otto, I didn't notice Valve ticking, but didn't have a chance last night to run the engine and listen carefully. I was busy adjusting my parking brake, re-attaching the bumper and so on. It was late into the morning and the sun was beginning to rise :D