Sabeo's 80SC Engine Rebuild
 

Hi everyone! I just wanted to share a few pictures of my rebuild. At the moment I have the engine tear down complete, with most of the parts fully cleaned so they can get shipped out to the machine shop's. So far it hasn't been to difficult, removing the head studs went fairly well. Actually, I found cleaning off the caked on oil and grime was the most challenging. I used a mix of few can's of Gunk engine cleaner, Diesel fuel, nylon brushes and a power washer. I have two studs that I didn't want to mess with because they are really close to the case, so I figured I let the pro's get them out. Internally, I think everything looked pretty good. The main bearing journals show wear as well as the sprockets on the intermediate shaft. The distributer gear on the crank shaft shows a scratch or two. One of the timing chain ramps in side the case was slightly broken, I found the little bits of plastic once I opened the case. The timing chain sprockets are worn, Cam's and rocker arms look good with slight wear.

Purchase List, New parts:

98mm JE Pistons, (can I bore out my 3.0 Mahle's to 98mm? Some say yes, some say no) If not, 95mm or new cylinders perhaps.

Valves, valve springs, valve guides, etc.

Fly wheel

Clutch pressure plate, Gear, clutch spring plate, cable, throw out bearing, etc.

Catalytic converter, my old one had a huge rusty hole in it.

All new sensors, oxygen, oil, etc.

SSI heat exchangers

Carrera chain tensioner kit

Race ware head stud kit

Race ware Rod bolt kit

These are just a few new parts I got for my rebuild. I wasn't expecting to replace the clutch parts, Fly wheel and or Catalytic converter, so that hurt me as far as my budget.

I'll update this thread with more pictures of the case and it's internals soon.

A big thanks to the Pelican Community and the guy's from the Chicago Porsche 911 Forum for all of your help and support thus far!!

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Nice. How many miles on the motor? Since the case is already split, do you plan on replacing the crank bearings? For the headstuds broken close to the case, the best $15 tool I found is this (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=369745&page=4):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209143156.jpg

Good luck!

Aurel

Aurel, The motor has roughly around 130k on the clock. When I bought the car the speedometer worked for about a hundred miles then died. I drove the car all of last summer and fall. I sent the speedo to North Hollywood Speedometer to get it fixed. They did a fantastic job. Yep all bearings are going to be replaced except for the #8. Ike @ Ollie's said there was no need to buy a brand new one as long as you recondition it.
Basically, I'm going to replace all the parts described in Wayne's book that must be replaced with new. I started this rebuild with a 7k budget plain, it's looking more like 12k-13k... The nightmares and sleepless nights already have started!

I actually read your thread and took you up on your recommendation, but I didn't try the bolt out kit. My Dad was afraid we might damage the case in the process.

Head Stud Warrior's
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Update:

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Cheers SmileWavy

nice pics! keep em coming, im planning the exact same build soon

Sabeo, can you discuss what Ollie recommended as far as reconditioning the #8 main bearing? Thanks!

I was going over all the part's I wanted to send to them, and I had mentioned that I was going to buy a new #8, and they just suggested to send it there way because they rarely go bad. I guess they will machine it, and put new seals on it. A brand new one from our host, standard size is $250.00. It's crazy how some parts can be relatively inexpensive and others in my opinion, such as the #8 expensive. But if I have to shell out the dough for a new one I would no question about it. :eek:

The #8
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Nice & Clean Oil Cooler, for some reason, I'm very fond of this part, very German! I wounder if the person who put this thing together is still alive?
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Awesome thread. I am at the exact spot that you are in - engine apart and preparing to ship parts out this week.

Are you having the oil pump tested too?

Can you list the items that you are sending out to the machine shop?

Thanks,
Craig

Mca, yep I'm going to have the oil pump tested. So far it look's like I'm sending out, the crank case, crank shaft w/#8 bearing, intermediate shaft, rod's, case thru bolt's w/cap nut's, oil pump, cam shaft housing, cam shafts, rocker arms, heads and my Mahle cylinders. Basically every major engine part that need's to be checked for correct specifications. I'm not sending my pistons because I want to use JE pistons. Sheet metal, timing chain housing's, fan, fan housing and intake pipes are being done at local shop here in Chicago.

DAG! That is going to be some expensive shipping!!! The crank with the flywheel attached is 45 lbs.

I am sending the same stuff but I will likely have the case cleaned locally and the crank cleaned/polished locally. The guys at EBS said that it isn't a big deal to have the crank polished by a non-specialty shop. We shall see!

Have you discovered any glaring problems now that you have inspected your parts? What caused you to decide to rebuild?

The 1980 engine I bought had zero compression and 100% leakdown on #3 (according to previous owner) but I can't see anything that would have caused that. But, I am a noob so it is likely that I am overlooking something.

Yeah I know the shipping is going to kill me, that's why I'm wishing I lived in Cali right now. I'm not sending the fly wheel, it looked to far gone. I decided to buy a new one, I figured to have it shipped and reconditioned, I can spend a little more a have a new one, I've already dug my grave, I might as well go all the way. :eek:

Ha ... I hear ya. Thanks for sharing the info and best wishes on the rebuild. Keep us posted and certainly keep the pics coming.

Maybe we will be putting our engines back together at the same time too. We are both working on 80 3.0s!

Like wise good luck! Feel free to post some of your pic's on this thread, the more pic's the better!!

Nah ... I don't want to hijack your thread (thanks though!).

If you want to follow my journey check it out here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=399544

No Prob :D

Sabeo, For the heavy stuff, go with FedEx ground, it's much cheaper then UPS, USPS or DHL. I shipped 4 fuchs with the tires on them (i think 70 pounds) from Chicago to Oregon for $68. I have a business account number that might get you a discount, let me know. The pics look great! Keep up the good work.

Johnny K.

HeyJohnnyK, cool! I will let you know about the shipping. I was planning on using FedEx. I priced all the other mail carriers and they are expensive... I'll shoot you a text! SmileWavy

Why did it have to come appart?

Any thought to having the small port heads ported? Could be important if going to a 3.2.

Another though, sell yours and source a 3.2 crank and rods and have J&E make you some pistons to work with the 98's for a 3.4 CIS monster motor...

It came apart due to broken head studs, so i decided to rebuild the entire motor. As far as upgrades, I'm keeping it stock. Maybe one day i can own a 930 or something..

Hey Sabeo ... wanted to ask you about your intermediate shaft.

Are you replacing both chain gears and the large aluminum (layshaft) gear?

mca, remarkably my layshaft gear looked almost new, but I'm planning on replacing the chain gears because the gear teeth looked worn. I'm waiting to hear back from the machine shop, hopefully by then I can get a good idea of the parts I need to replace... What about you?

Let me know what it will cost in labor and parts to replace those gears. One of mine looks brand new but the other one has some wear.

I am nearing my budget for this rebuild but I don't want to skimp on items ... especially those that are inside of the case. The opinion on replacing those gears seams to be 50/50.

Parts Update
 

Hello all, here are some updated pic's of my parts back from getting powder coated and blasted.. :D

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Very nice! If I were you, I would sand the top of the Porsche letters on your valve covers to make them stick out more.

Aurel

Thanks, that's a good idea..

SSI & Oil Lines
 

Do the TWO new oil lines required for the SSI conversion/installation replace the big metal oil line that is attached to the engine which connects to the hard oil line on the car/thermostat? I want to replace them both, but I'm not sure if I need to after buying new SSI heat exchanger's and the required lines for them, are these lines the same? :confused:

Here are the part numbers for the new oil lines

911-107-739-10-M20
911-107-728-00-M20

I just did the SSI / Weber conversion on my 81 sc. You only need to replace the one line. Block to thermostat. Actually, it is 2 lines, one steel and one rubber. It reverts back to the line used on the two seven. Pelican has two listings for the line. One has the front trombone type oil coller in the front fender well, the other doesnt. It should be simple to select the right lines for your needs.

Cheers


If your going Carbs, I strongly suggest an MSD igniton system.

ok, I purchased those lines already so I guess I should be good to go.. Thanks!

Engine back..Time to Rebuild!!
 

The fun begins! I got my engine back from Ollie's, so now it's time to rebuild. Ollie's did an Excellent job! they explained in detail what had to be done and answered all of my questions in great detail. All my parts look fantastic! I recommend them 100%.

Step 1. Crank assembly with stock Rod's using RaceWare Fasteners.

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Using a ARP Rod Bolt Stretch Gage, I was able to determine stretch and clamp load. I installed the fasteners lightly oiled with Loctite 243 for added insurance. RaceWare indicates by using the stretch method while installing their fasteners adequate stretch ranges from (0110 to 0115). I found being in the middle, (0112 to 0113) worked the best fro me. All the Rods turn freely, smooth and without any sticky spots or hang ups.
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I'll be starting on the case soon, I feel it's still not clean enough!

Update...
 

Hi everyone! Finally I can update my thread a little. I received my replacement rod and started the rebuild again. The pictures I previously posted of my crankshaft and installed rods had to to be disassembled due to a miss printed label on the raceware packaging. The rod fasteners were actually for a 3.2 liter engine and not a 3.0... I tried to obtain the new bolts as quickly as i could, no luck back ordered everywhere. I then decided to use ARP instead. I reassembled the rods on the crank, everything was going smoothly until my last rod. The big ends on ARP rod bolts spun out in the rod cap causing damage to the cap and fastener. At first i was told it could have been a manufactures defect with the rod bolts, but they check out to be in specification. The rod was the culprit! The person who I sent the rod out to stated to me that in the 20 + years working on Porsche engines has never come across this situation. I guess everything happens for a reason, who knows what could of happen to my engine if this bad rod wasn't discovered. :eek:

Bad Rod...
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Here are a few pictures of my progress...

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Some more pictures
 

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New thermostat with Elephant Racing lines

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New updated oil cooler

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At this point I'm beginning to pre-assemble the engine to check the valve to piston clearances.

Sabeo,
Where did you get those cool temporary cylinder retaining nuts?

Thanks,
Mark

Sabeo,

Nice work! Looks great. You are making nice progress.

I also have the finned oil lines and the cooler in the fender. Did you install a fan behind it? I am guessing you didn't b/c I still see the horn.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers,
Craig

Mark I got them from our host. They are not expensive and convenient. but of coarse you can use a socket and a nut to do the same job.

Craig, no fan. This was actually an unintentional swap. While removing the oil lines from the thermostat, the thermostat broke in half! There was no possible way for me to try and get the other side of the lines off. I tried soaking it with PB Blaster for a week. The propane torch was useless. These lines would not budge, after nearly 30 years they were welded in their place. Oh well, but I'm glad I did the upgrade, new engine, better cooling system! :D

I can assure you that those oil lines won't dissapoint you!:)
I did the same thing, and they work a lot better than the original ones...

Otto that's good to hear, I'm excited to have them! :D

Don't want to rain on the oil line parade ... but after just 6 months mine developed a leak / weep at the silver solder joint. I called Elephant and they said I could send it back and have them solder it again - no thanks.

Also, it looks like the purge valve may be leaking. I can not say for certain until I inestigate it more closely this weekend, but the area around the valve is wet.

Elephant suggested that I used too much force when installing the lines. I will admit, they were a tight fit but I didn't have to hang on them with all of my weight or anything. The finned lines are larger than OEM and there isn't much wiggle room with the OEM lines either.

Anyhow, a little bothered by it ... but I suppose it isn't a huge deal.

Craig, that's disappointing. I hope I don't encounter a oil leak problem with these lines. I also had a little trouble installing them. They fit way to snug, and was difficult attaching them to the front cooler. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to wait and see. :eek:

It is really more of a weep than a full out leak. I don't see how those lines could be installed without some sort of brute force.

You got any more updates or what? Want more pics!!!!