Head studs - I'm fixin' them! - Page 2

fastfredracing · 02-28-2013, 06:53 AM

Good think I am better at spinning a wrench than working on computers. I'll figure it out. It is nothing exciting just a quick vid of me holding a cam and taking the nut off. Thanks guys

zippy_gg · zippy_gg's Garage

The video works!

304065 · 03-02-2013, 07:22 PM

Fred, how could you put 150 foot pounds on the nut without the cam thrust washers and the rest of the assembly?

john walker's workshop · 03-10-2013, 08:02 AM

the socket does not clear the tensioner on the left side. there's a tool that replaces the tensioner and keeps tension on the chain. i made one with a long 8mm bolt into an exhaust barrel nut and a short sleeve welded perpendicular to the bottom of the nut. take the tensioner off @ #1 TDC to keep the cam from moving.

Lapkritis · Lapkritis's Garage

Good Luck... prepare for a snowball effect like no other.

I started mine in late September and just now making the turn to reassembly. My $.02: Take your time, do it right and allow your budget to grow so you don't end up with a half-baked runner. You will find more than you planned on... heads should be serviced, seals and gaskets, maybe you'll find a worn cam lobe (goodbye $600-$1000 if it's just a single rocker/lobe)... and on it goes. I'm having fun learning but boy it's not as cheap an education as the other marques.

Speedy Squirrel · Speedy Squirrel's Garage

I am looking for broken Dilavar head studs for forensic analysis (X-ray diffraction). Will pay shipping to Ann Arbor, MI

Scargo2 · Scargo2's Garage

Even with the special tools, with pipe extensions and 2 guys I couldn't get the Cam nuts off. I sacrificed the nuts. I drilled a series of small holes across half the nut surface and a quick strike with a cold chisel and it split. The tools worked to reassemble and get 150 ft. lbs.

tripm · 03-13-2013, 04:37 PM

lapkritis - the engine was rebuilt within 5-10k miles, so I should be good. I also have a friend who is dying to help me as he is going to have to rebuild his shortly.

speedy - I'll pm you. I know I have the broken studs somewhere. You want a whole one, or broken, or both? ;-)

bigel · bigel's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedy Squirrel

I am looking for broken Dilavar head studs for forensic analysis (X-ray diffraction). Will pay shipping to Ann Arbor, MI

Hey Squirrelly, I've got some broken Dilavar studs...PM me with an address...

tripm · 05-14-2013, 02:01 PM

Wow, two months ago. Hurt myself and had to have surgery, then worked on another project.

Anyway, I used the beg/borrow/steal method to get the tools and they will be put to use tonight.

tripm · 05-15-2013, 02:19 AM

Ok, go to the point of removing the bolt for the first rocker arm removal. Then it was late.

Next up, a drift to peacefully remove the rocker shafts and rockers.

SCadaddle · 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tripm

Ok, go to the point of removing the bolt for the first rocker arm removal. Then it was late.

Next up, a drift to peacefully remove the rocker shafts and rockers.

Nu-nu-nuh no.....here's a better idea. Find or have machined a piece like the rocker shaft keepers at each end of the bolt, but with an outer diameter the same as the rocker shaft or slightly smaller. Add a long piece of threaded rod and small piece of pipe at the other end with nuts on both ends of the threaded rod and you've got a dandy slide hammer to ease the shafts out! It's a brilliant tool of which I wish I could take credit for!
Follow up cleaning the rocker shaft bores with a gun cleaning kit---the long type for a rifle--mounted to a drill motor. That one I will claim!

fred cook · fred cook's Garage

When you start to remove the Dilivar studs, your two best friends will be a propane torch and a pipe wrench! Heat the spigot next to the base of the stud until you feel the block on the opposite side of the stud getting warm and then go to work with the pipe wrench. I found that a pipe wrench about 18" long worked best. If you have or have access to an 8mm stud collet tool, it will work on the broken studs. For the unbroken ones, you would either need a larger size collet or would need to cut off the top threads. Good luck with your project! I kept one of the broken studs from my SC engine to remind me why I'm doing this rebuild!

fred cook · fred cook's Garage

I had the same problem, have the correct tools, but cam nuts would not budge! Did not have a 46mm socket, so I used the 46mm crows foot with my air wrench set on the second lightest torque setting to loosen the nuts. Kept hitting it with a short burst on the air gun until the nut came loose. Worked great, no damage to anything! The cams going back in use the small center bolt so I won't have to fight that battle again!

fred cook · fred cook's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by tripm

Ok, go to the point of removing the bolt for the first rocker arm removal. Then it was late.

Next up, a drift to peacefully remove the rocker shafts and rockers.

If you have to, drill out the offending nut on the rocker shaft. Driving them out will ruin the cam housing! I had one that a previous "mechanic" had put in backwards and over tightened to the point of stripping the 5mm end of the screw. Tried everything but finally had to drill out the 8mm end which is the nut. Only had to drill a small distance until the nut came off on the drill bit. With the pressure off, the offending rocker shaft came out easily.