3.2SS twin plug underway
 

I've left my build to the very capable hands of Mike Bruns. He was kind enough to send me some pics now that some of the major components are in hand.

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Toddhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372429080.jpg

great pictures ! You are going to love working with them! Mike is a great guy!

If you say it is twin plug, then you must be getting one of the JB Racing twin plug distributors. They are awesome works of art, the best ones we have ever used.
Keep us updated on the progress. We have one in a 3.6 engine on the dyno as I type.

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WOW!! That's a beauty!

Yes, I'm absolutely using the JB Racing twin plug distributor.

Some of the other specs -

• 46 PMO
• 3.2 Heads
• Cross drilled crank
• GT3 bearings/modified oiling
• ~ 10.5:1
• Dual MSD
• 964 Oil pump
• Lightweight flywheel/PP

Ah...the memories...I love the old Burrette system for checking head volume.
I think I still have one hiding around here some place.
Yay Mike....LOL.
Bob

Camshaft, air filter and muffler choice?

Elgin Mod-S cams.

I'll most likely use K&N filters with rain shields, but not 100% on that yet (haven't thought that far ahead).

Muffler is also undecided at this point. I *just* had my rear valance blasted, retextured and repainted, so I'm not excited about cutting it for dual out. Maybe I'll get a fiberglass one that has dual cutouts and stick mine on a shelf or something. Might go "custom" with Magnaflow.

Todd

Here's a shot of the MSD install. Still need to snake the wires through the firewall and put them in some heat shrink or something.....

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Before you put your trigger wires that go to the JB distributor in sheathing, it is a good idea to do the "twisted pair" method on them. Can't hurt, since I don't know how one checks for EMI in the engine bay. I also do the wires going to the ignition coils.

Here is a quote from an engineer....

•Twisted-pair wires provide an effective shield that helps protect sensitive electronic components from electrical interference. If the wires were covered with shielding, install new shielding. In order to prevent electrical interference from degrading the performance of the connected components, you must maintain the proper specification when making any repairs to the twisted-pair wires shown:
•◦The wires must be twisted a minimum of 9 turns per 31 cm (12 in) as measured anywhere along the length of the wires
◦The outside diameter of the twisted wires must not exceed 6.0 mm (0.25 in)

Nice Pauter rods!

Those pistons look like the off-the-shelf std. issue for 10.5? I have/had a set of those.

I suspect Mike had your pistons spec'd based on what volume he got for the heads? Otherwise the comp ratio will it just end up at whatever number results from your head volume & off the shelf piston dome volume

Sounds like it'll be a great engine. 3.2SS is a nice one to build

Not my rods :-)

Yes, they are off the shelf 10.5. Should end up somewhere between 10.2 - 10.5, which should be fine.

Todd

Progress
 

A few more pics complements of Mike -

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Todd

Nice shiny #8 (OE Porsche?) and 964 pump

Any reason to groove the bearing (#4) instead of the crank? Reason I ask is because I see for instance Ollies grooves the crank journal

Crank gets cross drilled. Think they work together.

Thanks for sharing. My MSD is currently mounted in the bay and gets toasty. I was thinking about where I could mount it to keep it cooler... I was thinking in the bonnet up front as I've been using the back seat a lot.

Yep. You can groove the bearing like your picture shows or you can groove the crank itself at the same bearing location

I thought grooving crank would be simpler for future bearing replacement. Meaning, only need to enlarge hole in the bearing but not groove it

Why stock rods? What are you going to set the rev limit to?

Scott

It's a street car. Stock rods should be plenty. Decided to spend the money elsewhere.

Todd

I asked because the advantage a short stroke engine has over a more stock stroke is that you can spin it faster. If you are going to spin it faster than stock, you would want better rods. If aren't going to spin it faster, why build a short stoke?

Anyway.....

Scott

I believe there are several arguments for SS, not just spinning higher RPM. I think in stock configuration it's the rod bolts that are the weak point. I've upgraded to ARP.

Todd

Longer stroke motors are better for torque. The way to get power is to spin faster and short stoke motors can spin faster. That is their advantage. For a purely street car, I would prefer a long stroke 3.2 versus a short stroke 3.2 because of the better torque characteristics. But that may just be me....

Scott

At any rate, I'm excited about the build and look forward to getting it back. I'll post dyno results when I get them.

Todd

Just beautious todd. Are those the "new" headers ..they look to be smaller diameter than the ones you have for sale...what is reasoning? Good luck with it... Do post some dyno data cheers frank

Thanks Frank ;-)

I think they are actually larger. They are 1 3/4 inch. The ones I'm selling are 1.625 OD, which I'm guessing is 1.5" ID. The big difference is the length of the primaries. The new ones are a better fit for my carbs.

I think the RarlyL8's are perfect for you ;-).

Well, Mike is certainly moving much faster than I am. I've almost got my tranny resealed, but still need to install (well, haven't even bought it) an oil cooler, figure out my gas lines, order the FP regulator, etc.

Anyway, some pics today from Mike showing his progress -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374009838.jpg


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Todd

Note the big degree wheel. That's a guy who knows the "resolution" of the small crank pulley can make for some difficult/inconsistent cam timing. "Blow up" the resolution with the degree wheel and you can be much more precis with cam timing.

Solid chain tensioners on a street engine? Why'd you choose those? Not being critical. Just asking because regular tensioners, be they Carrera-style or not, are set-and-forget. The solid/mechanical tensioners require a cold setting of 1.5mm clearance and then periodic checks later on.

You're in good hands with Mike!

He might be using those cam tensioners to set the timing. Noticed those too. He has my oil fed tensioners at the shop.

CR came in at 10.55!!

Todd

Ah of course. Using the solid tensioners for setup. Duh, should have realized that myself!

Congrats on hitting 10.5 on the mark. Must have a good set of heads! My heads had been fiddled with so much that I could barely get 10.0

Speaking of the rods, I think the stock rods were a good choice for the street engine. Stock rod weight vs. Pauter rod weight is same. I measured them both recently and have both for my 3.2SS.

Our former MotoDelta flagship had stock SC rods in it's 3.3SS for many years and hours. Never seemed to be a shortcoming in that engine. Spun it to 7500 and produced 248 WHP quite easily- JE 10.5 comp pistons, LN Nickies, 46 Webers with Web 120/104 cams. Not really that stressed. Good engine it was.

Downside to the long stroke 3.2 IMO is the heavier crank and the wimpier rods, despite the additional torque. Point being is I think the better rods are more important in the 3.2, 3.6 stock engines. The crank and rod 3.0/SC foundation is pretty solid!

The stock rods are fine if you rev less than 7500 AND you don't make a money shift.....

Scott

Gorgeous.

Heads are "virgin" 3.2 heads that have been twin plugged, valve job and some mild port work done.

Todd

There are multiple benefits to building a 3.2SS.
First, the 3.0 crank is used and the rod & journal design is far superior to that of the 3.2 crank.
Another benefit to the 3.0 crank and rod configuration is rod length to stroke ratio.
As Porsche engines got longer stroke cranks they also got shorter rods.
Short rod length to stroke ratios create greater rod angularity (friction) and less piston dell. (reducing combustion efficiency).

As for the 3.0 rods: they are more than adequate for this engine configuration. The Mod S cams employed in this build are all out of power around 7000 or even 7200 if all the numbers are right. 7200 is well within the limits of the 3.0 rod with ARP bolts.
Especially when you consider the proposed street use of the engine.

Appreciate you chiming in Henry!!

Todd

Yes, for a racing engine all those things you mention are important. My point was that for a street engine, the 3.2 short stroke is not necessarily better. If one is keeping the stock rev limiter, the long stroke 3.2 offers some advantages over the short stroke 3.2.

I only mentioned the rods because most people build a short stroke 3.2 so they can generate more revs....

Scott

lookin beautiful toddu..go for it!! love the gold case bolts .. very bling bling!! frank

Generally, people build short stroke 3.2 liter engines because they own 3.0 liters and they're looking for "more".
Just like the OP. He has a 3.0 case which might suggest that he started with a 3.0.
Add some 98mm pistons and cylinders and you're there. After that, adding ancillary items to customize your build become personal preference.

There is no "best", just a reasonable answer to "what cool engine can I build with what I have?"

Few more updates from Mike -

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That's "Denver" (gorgeous) as quoted by Mitch Martin- Old School, 2003

Home stretch!!!
 

I'm almost going to hate putting it back in the car :D

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