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john hejmanowsk john hejmanowsk is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: New Lenox,IL
Posts: 103
Denis,

this may be too much information, and you may already know this, but,,,

Take a deep breath. Make sure you want to do this.... I have done it three times. Once to just fix it up and go camping. Then another trailer and did it right. Then went back to the first one and did it right. (i should have just done it right the first time). I know of two airstreams in the area where the guys have just given up, too much work.

one of the first steps is to make sure you stop all the leaks. these old trailers have them and they can be tough to find and stop.

drop the bottom skins and look at the floor from the bottom side. you will get a much better picture of total floor rot. also you will see how much frame rot there is. there will be some - the fiberglass floor insulation falls down and collects water causing frame rot. floors typically rot under windows, access doors, wheel wells, and main door. the awning rail is also a frequent leak point.

some guys end up pulling the body off the frame to get easier access to repair the frame and totally replace the floor. - i have not had to do this but some have.

figure to replace the axles, they will be bad.

inspect the frame at the axle location. the frame often cracks here if there is separation at the back. check for separation at the back - the frame is supported by the aluminum exterior, not the other way around. you can check by jumping on the back bumper and seeing if it drops downward separating from the back exterior panel.

figure to replace everything - a/c, inverter, converter, battery, plumbing, window and door seals, refer, furnace, lights, beds, cushions, flooring. add a big D4 size truck battery and full led lighting. and add a current sensor to monitor amp draw so you know how much battery is left. don't rely on the voltage sensor, use a current sensor.

If you try and fix up the old stuff they will just break down on you one at a time and drive you crazy with repairs and interruptions to your camping.

if the camper does not have an a/c you can add one somewhat easily. it should be pre-wired including a drain tube.

check the plastic exhaust shroud from the refer to the roof. they typically age-crack.

you should add a decent size black tank, a grey tank, 40 gal capacity for each and plumbing. the older trailers had a small black tank only. you will need to space up the frame to make room for the tanks and enough drain pipe pitch to a macerator pump. don't go cheap and try to use a blue-boy portable tank, you will forever wish you had added proper size black and grey tanks.

replace all the old copper piping with pex and put in a modern water pump. add a bypass around the (new) hot water tank to make it easy to winterize. while you are doing the plumbing, add tank level sensors and a read-out panel.

careful when you replace the woodwork with new plywood, it adds weight quickly.

Get a good weight distribution hitch with sway control. you don't need an F250 to pull these trailers. I use a tacoma or a jeep grand cherokee.

these are fun trailers to rebuild but they are a big project. just psych yourself up and trudge thru it.

Inland RV just south of Chino is a good resource. andy, the owner, is a crotchety old opinionated bastard but once you get past that he knows everything about airstreams.
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