[Pazuzu]

Originally Posted by 3rd_gear_Ted

You can get fused buss bar assemblies to allow fusing before the relays

The fuse panels that I have are just like that, one main bus in split to 6 fuses. The difference is the ones I'm using are heavier than any others I've seen (40amp per circuit, 150amp per panel), which is much higher than what I've seen from Buss or Hella, for example.

My first design was simply replace the line of fuses with them, fed from the ignition switch and battery as stock, and only get rid of the mess of jumpers, but I realized that I wanted to take the load off of the ignition switch itself. Therefore, the extra 75A relays and main busbar.

Originally Posted by jclporsche

Nice project! I recently upgraded to Alan Louwerse CDD Autogear fuse block

Originally Posted by Glasgow 911SC

There's also Classic Retrofits replacement panel.

These, Fred Cook's design, even some of the other DIY setups all make for stronger fuses, but none of them clean up the assembly at all, nor do they strengthen/harden the harness behind the fuses. This setup *should* make the entire front electrical assembly much stronger, safer and cleaner.

Originally Posted by steely

Any thoughts as to the best or current planned location for the relays? What is the dwg app?

The relay bases are the long line across the upper left, there are 10 bases clicked together. So, when mounted, they will be front and center as viewed from the outside. Basic Bosch/Tyco cube relays.

Dwg program? Powerpoint! It takes FOREVER, is not at all the right way to do it, but after a few years of mucking around with it, I have a few tricks that let me build wiring diagrams with colored wires AND inset stripes!

For example, this is the main wiring harness that runs along the trunk of the car!

Originally Posted by James Brown

a clear plastic watertight box would be great like a "Pelican" box

If I was moving where the whole assembly was (a la SpyderMike), then yes, I would have made it a more square assembly and put it in a housing, but that just won't work where they exist now, it would be way too bulky. As it stands, the factory setup was FAR from waterproof, and had exposed hot wires everywhere, and didn't seem to cause issues, so this setup should be OK. There are still hot points exposed, so a cover will be needed, but at least the main busbar has a good cover built in, so you won't have a flat out 100+amp feed sitting exposed, waiting for something to bump into it...