Quote:
Originally Posted by mickey356
Well I had a chance to drive my car the other day and I gave the pedal a good stomp doing about 35mph. It stopped quickly (no lock up) but when taking off again the car kinda dragged a bit like the feeling you get when you forget to release the ebrake. Once rolling a bit it freed up fine and drove normally. Hard to explain but I t just doesn't feel right.
Still unclear in the actuator rod length or how to determine if it's the correct length, though I don't think that is the sole issue here.
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Hi, Mickey,
I stopped commenting when you listed the known condition of components. From above it sounds like you have caliper pistons sticking. I think before you go into anymore bit by bit attempts to diagnose, based on what you have told us, you need to do all of the following.
1. Remove all calipers. Either replace with PMB parts as you have mentioned, or disassemble and reseal all of the pistons. Insure that the pistons all move freely with no binding, A block of wood between them thick enough to prevent pistons from popping out, and air pressure applied from the brake line connection should allow you to see both pistons moving out smoothly in each caliper.
2. Replace all the flex lines. For a driver non track car, rubber lines are fine. This is disputable by some vs braided lines, but for your purposes here DOT rubber will be fine.
3. Replace the master cylinder with a genuine ATE part.
To get a firm pedal after bleeding the air out, you will probably have to install thin/worn pads and allow the pistons to push out, then compress them back just far enough to allow your new pads to fit. This is related to the kick back mechanism in these early calipers.
Let us know if the problem persists after rebuilding and bleeding system. I suspect that your problems will go away at that point but if not, we can diagnose from there. I have a friend doing the single to dual MC conversion now, and we can get measurements on the brake MC actuating pin then.
Kind regards,
Morrie