[tevake]

Yep looks like Tom Current to me. He sure chose an interestion surfing life.

I once got ride a nearly perfect break, in Tahiti. Not a well known spot internationally.
But it had an amazing setup fairly easy take off, then walled up down the line to the right, then the lip started pitching in into a clean barrel that just pulled you in. Gave you the perfect green shack for moments.l Then the wave slowed down and let you out the front door often with dry hair and a big smile on your face. And with enough speed to carry you over the shoulder and into the channel for an easy paddle out.

This spot had the clearest water, and beautiful reef covered with colorful fish, all trying to distract you at the important moments. ��
It did this wave after wave for days at the right tide.
Almost too good to be true.
The sort perfection that people say they would tire of.

Nope I never did, some of the best days of my surfing life.
Maybe if it went on endlessly, I might have wanted a change, doubt it!

Cheers Richard