Quote:
Originally Posted by James Brown
keep going your on the right track, try to look at the bulbs and sockets at the side that is out. most likely corrosion or damage to the wires is causing this high resistance. lets work on one problem at a time! plenty of time
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+1.
"Checking", as mentioned in your post, doesn't mean much, IMO, without some detail as to what that entailed. You need to do some
serious inspections which includes
removing the fixtures on the side that doesn't work. I offered up some basic steps as to how far, at least, you need to go upon first investigation. Your reply doesn't seem to indicate you put too much effort into the task. If I'm incorrect, I apologize, but we only know what you do through your posts.
Here's what we know:
1) Passenger side parking lights failed to light due to a blown fuse.
2) Fuse was replaced, lights worked.
3) After about an hour, fuse blew.
Here's what we don't know:
1) Was the car moving when the fuse blew?
2) What is the condition of the
sockets for the parking lights (inside, with bulb removed, as well as outside at connectors)?
3) What is the condition of the light fixture, including all connections to chassis ground?
4) Does the fuse blow when
either the front or rear light is
disconnected?
5) Are all the wires that are connected to the light fixtures (besides the parking lights) separated from each other?
6) What is the condition of the wiring loom, from the light fixtures to the chassis?
7) Have you traced the wires from the blown fuse as far as possible, looking for bare spots?
If you can answer the seven questions, above, that would help greatly--especially #4 as that could isolate the source of the problem.