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Thanks Guys,
Sorry for the delay I was on another thread trying to help afterburn with an issue.
Dave, Don't worry the boat is chugging along. I posted some updates a few days ago. The scraper for sure will get used on the boat. I think I posted, someone painted over much of the interior wood work. Rather than use heat guns or chemicals which could damage the wood or cause the paint to get in the grain we will try and use scrapers to remove the paint. Fortunately there are several good coats of varnish so all the paint is sitting right on top. It's just going to be a slow arduous process to remove. Probably part of next winters project.
MBtarga/devodave- The only marking is Made in America. So no idea of the manufacturer. Probably why it was only $5.00 It is the same size as my #3 Stanley.
techman1- I love Paul Sellers videos. Very informative. I was very hesitant to try and sharpen my chisels until I watched his video and a few others.
bt1211- It really isn't that hard. A bit time consuming but very satisfying in my opinion, like mowing the lawn or vacuuming the carpet. You can see the transformation happen right in front of your eyes.
First of course is to disassemble, wash and degrease the parts. No need to de-rust that will happen. After cleaning reassemble the plane.
The process is very similar to sanding wood, leveling body panels in prep for paint, etc.
You will need something very flat and about one and a half lengths of the plane. I use a piece of one inch thick granite sink cut out. I use sand paper starting at about 120 and work up. Usually finishing at around 400 to clean and true the foot of the plane. Place the sand paper on your flat surface and push back and forth until you get flat and true surfaces all the way around and around the mouth. The rust will clean off and highlight the low spots. As you work up in grit the surface will polish also highlighting low spots. You can also mark the surface with a sharpie similar to a guide coat. The photo below is the foot of the plane. As you can see there is still a hollow in the middle with 120 scratches. These are fine. There is still a small low spot at the toe and at the top (right) these could stand to be polished more but they are fine for what I will be using it for. Do this same process on the sides. It is important to have the plane assembled when leveling the foot if you do it in assembled you run the risk of warping the foot when assembled and the foot is no long level. Once this is finished you can disassemble. wax or oil the plane body. The steel or blade gets trued in the same manner. I generally start at 400 wet, lay the steel bevel side up. and push back and forth. You are looking for the same flattening at the cutting edge. You want the steel flat from the edge to about a quarter inch back. I generally work up to 800-1000 to get a nice polish. Flip the steel over and do the same to the bevel edge. I use a bevel gauge for accuracy. The cap iron should have the leading edge squared using the same process so it lays tight against the steel. It's also a good idea to flatten the bottom of the from so it lays flat against the plane body. Everything else I clean up with a brass brush, 3M pads, maybe a little compound. Wax or oil everything.
Whew, watch Paul sellers YouTube videos.
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