[Jeff Higgins]

In order:

Whether you realize it or not, yes, you do need the Nosler reloading manual. And at least several others. Don't even consider delving into this until you have several and have read every last word of each and every one's "how to" sections. You can never have too many reloading manuals.

You do not need to trickle and weigh charges for rifle rounds. This is entirely powder dependent. The extruded "stick" powders demand this approach, but no others require it. You would know this, by the way, if you had read those loading manuals.

Primer choice is driven by caliber and powder choice. Rifle and pistol primers are quite different and not interchangeable. Within those two broad categories, we have "large" and "small", "standard" and "magnum". Again, read those manuals to understand why, and which applications demand which. I cannot over-emphasize the importance of this.

There are no powders suitable for both rifle and pistol/revolver loads. At least not until you get into the deep end of the pool and start shooting reduced velocity cast bullet loads from your rifles, but that is into "graduate level" reloading. If you are loading to the standard velocity range of a bottlenecked rifle round, and loading pistol or revolver ammunition, there is no one powder that will work. As a matter of fact, if you are loading for more than one bottlenecked rifle caliber, you will almost certainly need different powders for each.

Bullet selection will be driven by your velocity requirements. Handgun plinking loads, which are generally put together with standard for caliber bullet weights, will typically be loaded into the 800 foot per second range. Swaged or cast lead bullets will work fantastic in revolvers, and even autoloaders, at these velocities. They will save you a ton of money as well. Check those manuals for powders and primers suitable for these loads in the caliber you would like to load.