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if your area is susceptible to termites, get the ground treated before pouring- lots cheaper
I have a 36 x 60 x 10, 10 foot will require strategic placement to use a lift
I wish I had gone 12 tall and had them continue roof another 10 foot off the side of building for parking stuff under shelter - like the car trailer, compressor....
I have vinyl wrapped r12 glass insulation - sprayed in is better
Am in south carolina, a 4 ton commercial carrier package unit will keep the humidity and temp ok to work in the dead of summer with a fan
A skylight in the center is handy but it does let uv in and will hurt anything uv susceptible
can never have enough outlets - have a few on ceiling beams for retractible drop lights in work area
even if not now - run good wire to where hvac might go
put a 220 outlet by the doors
and near where benches will be
I put a semi quiet fan with louvers in the peak opposite the roll up doors for nice days- very handy - don't let them sell you a barn fan - noisy! kind of wish I had gone with a belt driven
run 220 to where compressor will go - recommend put it outside
As for power, do what you can to use one power meter for your house. Months when I don't spend much time in it, I still have a 30-40 ish dollar payment just for the meter - it adds up.
I put usb board all the way around to protect the insulation, was going to go the whole 10 ft but have only put the 4 x8 sheets standing on end
When you have the purilans ran - horizontal 2 x 6's between poles - have one put with it's centerline 8 feet off the floor - I had to rip 6 1/2 inches off each sheet ( that was a pain) to be able to screw/nail to it and have enough room to catch the 2 x 6 when I do cover the top 2 feet
any water plumbing - have a layout before pour - put under the floor, run air pipe overhead, put a drain valve at each air bib
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