[Bob Kontak]

This is a bit windy. Sorry.

Purchased a rebuilt Thermostatic Actuator from Wes Ingram. Bought his SPICA guide as well.

Car will start when cold but dies when starter stops feeding electricity to the cold start solenoid.

Wes speaks of two things that a layman can look for. One is the "low" fuel pressure light. The other is the gap in the arm the TA impacts post warm up. Fuel pressure appears "ok" as light on dash blips on for way less than a second then goes out. I can't get the car warm to check the gap.

Here is a little history. Car would start fine before we pulled the engine to replace clutch. However, the car would not restart unless fully warm. So, five minutes into a drive if the car was shut off, she was dead until it was stone cold again. I believe there was a lean problem then.

Bring in the new actuator with it proboscis sticking out loud and proud (maybe 1/8-1/4" longer than the tired one) and I also deleted the little gasket where the TA mounts on the MI pump per Wes' guide. The plunger screw under the TA is now maybe up to 5/16" further towards lean than it was with the tired TA.

I can cheat and run the car with the cold start solenoid engaged with a separate battery but I only did this for 10 seconds. I can blip the throttle doing this and it responds.

Thinking at a minimum, I need to remove the EPA security cap off the screw under the TA, seat it and back off two turns per the guide.

Is it possible an ignition issue could kill spark after the starter is disengaged?

On CIS the Cold Start valve fogs fuel into the intake. I believe on SPICA it simply enriches what is going through the four injectors. Correct?