Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippy
Putting in ARP rod bolts does require resizing***, at least what the engine builders say.
It's pretty cheap, but then it leads to new rod bearings, unless you're comfortable reusing.
That's a tough debate I have with myself, honestly. I'd think the board would be pretty unanimous with putting in new.
See where this is going?
If it has Nikasil, there is no point in touching the rings or cylinders IMO at that low of mileage.
*** Maybe swapping 1 rod bolt at a time WITHOUT pulling the cap off or loosening the opposing stock rod bolt would NOT require resizing???
Dunno?
Better answered by others as I've never done this but throwing out there you wouldn't loose the concentricity IMO.
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Ah... the slippery slope. Like everyone else with a bad stud, I had a great running car before I found this. I just want to get it back to where it was and go back on the track
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I read as many posts as I could last night, see people have managed to change to ARP with the crank in, using custom made stretch gauges... Rods were resized...
I was pondering your suggestion, of changing the rod bolts to new standard rod bolts, one at a time. That would just provide additional insurance on the track. Using the same rod bolts would require the same pressure/stretch... would think that wouldn't effect the shape of the big end... Need to do more reading... I tend to agree that leaving it alone would be best...
Is there any way to tell in situ if there are any issues with rod/bolt stretch? Can you put a dial indicator on a rod that's still connected to the crank and see how much "give" it has? I assume not, and if its a stupid question I apologize
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How does one assess rods/crank with the case together? Other than going by the fact that the car ran fine? If something is worn now is the time to fix it. But don't want to go fixing things on a 60,000 mile motor that probably are fine...