Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Wilson
As in - one of the cripples is kicked out or in compared to the other side of the door.
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Jack stud?
Anatomy of a Stud-Framed Wall - Fine Homebuilding
I would start with the hinge side stud. Make sure it is plumb both directions, straight, and solidly secured top and bottom.
Sometimes/usually studs are not.
That is the main attachment point that everything will be based on.
If it is bowed in the center, double or triple up the king studs holding up the rim joist above, knock those into place, so the load from above transfers around your door framing and doesn't affect it. Then remove bow with belt sander w/40grit or chisel(?) or another method which works faster and better. I'm somewhat of a hack and definitely not a pro.
If using a light door in a non-load-bearing wall, the gap can be sucked out by screwing with longer screws into a straight adjoined stud or the stud adjusted with a BFH and secured with 4"+ screws when finally aligned correctly.
The hinge-side must be shimmed and everything secured tight and pancaked into solid studs before moving on to the rest of the door.
Screws too tight can sometimes tweak the frame if there is any gap behind it. Careful of this. Use shims behind.
Pre-drilling will help prevent movement.
Check corner to corner measurements. Measure twice.
Take your time.
That door will be swung thousands of times.
Next look at sill plate to hinge-side.
This must be exactly perpendicular or it will throw off all square. The hinge-side may have to sit up to 1/2-1" higher (as I once found out with a sill that was not level at all), but hopefully not. If the handle-side sits lower it can easily be shimmed up so no worries there.
Actually this should be checked
before tightening down the hinge-side.
Hinge side good? Sill plate good and strong? Shim up the other two sides and secure. You are done. Congrats.
Use the lightweight foam made 'for doors and windows' only.