Yes, Peter .. some of these memories seem as though from a previous life ;^)
A couple more of my favorite water shots for you, Baz ..
Wailua (on Maui) is a VERY "local" surf spot, and rightfully so. On this particular day, I decided rather than take waves, I'd just photograph Da Boyz having fun.
In Kailua on Oahu, the Mokulua islands offer a very unique wave action, in which you can ride back & forth (perpendicular to the beach) on swells wrapping both ways around Moku Nui island. We usually paddle out by canoe, beach the canoe, and surf for hours between beer breaks.
"The Mokes" have two different surf spots, in addition to the back & forth shore break. Here's a great shot of Mark riding the back & forth, launched by the opposing swell.