Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom '74 911
That's a pretty slick solution. I like it.
Can I ask a few easy questions?
In the video, you use a significant amount of Loctite 640 and mention that it only cures in the absence of air. It still makes me uncomfortable to think of that much bonding agent dripping down into the squirter bore and inside the squirter itself when used on the screw cap. Is my concern completely misguided and due to me not understanding the properties of Loctite 640? Does the excess just get washed out thru the squirter during the first start-up? Is it a potential issue if the engine sits for an extended period before being run?
Tom
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I have had this concern as well. In fact, the instructions (the printed ones I am making) will have a diagram that shows exactly where to put the loctite. So I ran some tests - a lot of tests. I installed a couple squirters super sloppy, gooping the loctite on without a care. I really wanted to cater to the lowest level of installer.
After I ran the motor and then tore it down, ALL squirters were functional, even the ones with the loctite on sloppy.
However, I discovered where a problem might occur if the loctite was on too thick - INSIDE THE BARREL. It never happened, but it could. Basically, if you put the loctite on super thick on the cap, and it drips inside the barrel, it could sink down into where the ball is seated and jam the ball in place.
Note that this is a THEORY, and it never happened no matter how thick I put the 640 on, but it is enough of a concern to me to ensure the printed instructions clearly state the 640 needs to be placed UNDER THE CAP and a little on the threads, not just on the threads.
More specifically, 640 is just like 574. It won't dry in air no matter how long you let it sit. Even weeks later. So there is no danger of it hardening in your oil galleries.
Even so, if you are concerned, here is what you do: Install the squirters per the vid on an unbuilt case half. Let them cure 24 hours. Soak the passages with carb cleaner, and blow the squirters out. Now they will sit indefinitely without your intervention until you are ready to build the motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom '74 911
On the sizing choices: the original squirters I removed from my 2.7L case measure 6.27mm. The replacements I received from the machine shop (which look like stock but are of their own making I was told) measure 6.37mm. I don't want to jinx myself, but the 3 I have removed so far, came out super cleanly and left the bores in really great shape. Will your standard sized 5.95mm barrels work? Your video mentions using a 6.4mm drill bit for the oversized barrels - what drill bit could I use as a gauge for 5.95mm barrels?
Thanks for developing what looks to be a great solution.
Tom
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It is REALLY important when using Loctite 640 to ensure that the bores are either a light press fit or have a maximum gap, which is like .05-.08mm. Any larger of a gap and you risk failure of the Loctite, and that goes for STOCK squirters as well. Remember, Porsche specs Loctite 640 for stock squirters.
640 works best when applied very thin!
If your bores are about 6.27mm, I would not put a 5.95mm squirter in there. That is too big a gap. Run a 6.4mm bit through there and go oversize. It'll take less than 5 mins to do them all.
Also if your hole is 6.27 and your squirter is 6.37 you will have a hard time hammering the stock ones in, as they will want to deform if you aren't doing it right, which is another thing I hate about stock squirters!
