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Spencer,
Wow, that is a very astute observation and one that I personally struggle with! So I asked Henkel about the whole assembly, and they saw the drawings for the whole thing early on. They recommended that the cap be attached with 640, because then, they would consider it a "permanent" installation.
I wanted that because lets face it, outside of racers, the average guy is going to build a motor and run it 80,000 miles. So i felt the caps should therefore be permanent.
So in my teardown I removed all the caps just to see how it went. The video shortens the heating process obviously because its boring to watch me use a torch....but here is what I observed:
1. It takes a lot of heat DIRECTLY APPLIED to remove the cap.
2. Using a digital thermometer, even the metal located a half inch away is notably cooler, and not hot enough to break the bond.
3. When the 640 fails, it burns up, leaving no residue so to speak.
From these experiments, which are somewhat empirical, I came to the conclusion that the light press fit that I am recommending coupled with the fact that the 640 down at the base of the squirter barrel isn't hot enough to fail will keep the squirter in nicely.
The stuff is really tenacious to the point where if you put a screwdriver on the cap without heating it, you will destroy the cap before the loctite fails (an actual experiment of mine). I would also wager that the light press fit alone would keep the squirter barrel seated.
Our motors just don't run that hot.....
As to the 964 orifice, it is a 2.5mm; the regular 964 got the same orifice.
Great questions!
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